Dr Dray reviews serums the way a dermatologist would. She wants to know what each ingredient does, whether they work together or fight each other, and whether the price is worth it. Across 63 serums, her record lands at a Guru Score of 62%, and four products earned her Top Pick. The ones she skipped tell just as interesting a story.
What does Dr Dray recommend in serums?
What she keeps praising is ingredients that work as a team. The Maelove Fade Away Brightening Serum was one of her most repurchased this year. Arbutin, kojic acid, and licorice root each hit the pigment-making process from a different angle. Together they work better than any one alone. She made the same case for the Abib Glutathione Dark Spot Serum, which combines ascorbic acid, glutathione, and niacinamide in what she called a complementary formula. Hydration keeps coming up in her approvals too. She explains that a well-moisturised surface scatters light, so dark spots look less obvious. A stronger skin barrier also cuts down on irritation, and less irritation makes hyperpigmentation easier to shift. Value matters alongside quality. She has said The Ordinary Lactic Acid 10% + Hyaluronic Acid does the job just as well as options that cost significantly more.
In their words
"One of my all-time favorite antioxidant serums here. This I love. It is the Abib Glutathione Dark Spot Serum. This serum has these little capsules in it that just melt right into your skin. And the capsules contain glutathione, ascorbic acid, and niacinamide. I like that together because we know that ascorbic acid has all of these stability issues, but in the presence of other antioxidants that is thought to enhance its stability and niacinamide, of course, is an ingredient that I personally love using. And I think that's a great way to make use of those ingredients kind of in a complimentary fashion. Not to mention the serum itself is very hydrating. It's very moisturizing. I ended up using this first thing in the morning, letting it absorb and then once it dried down fully, putting sunscreen on over it. That's a great way to have antioxidants in your routine is to put them on in the morning either through a serum like this under sunscreen. [...] Really have enjoyed this and I have another one to get started on."
"We have the 20 oz bottle of AmLactin 12% Lactic Acid Lotion. [...] At this percentage strength, it not only improves epidermal thickness, but also dermal thickness. This is one thing that could potentially be helpful for those of you with solar purpura, like age related dermatoporosis, thinning of the skin related to the sun, usually on the backs of the hands and the forearms. You [...] get this huge bruise. [...] This right here, it's not going to get rid of that issue, [...] but it's one of the few things that can legitimately help with that. [...] This is the first month at this Costco you have the 20 oz bottle. Normally it's $18.99. This month, they're taking $ [...] 5 off. $13. [...] Yes, you can use this on the face. Yes, you can use it with retinoids. [...] AmLactin reformulated and [...] it no longer has the odor. I never noticed an odor from AmLactin myself, but [...] they reformulated it. [...] I've seen confirmation in the comments from over 20 of you [...] that you used to [...] not use AmLactin in the past, but you heard from my videos that they changed it and it doesn't stink anymore. So you gave it another try and you're so glad you did because you don't smell anything and you're loving it."
"Let's talk about a product that I personally use and I've used a lot this year. In fact, it was one of my most repurchased: the Maelove Fade Away Brightening Serum. This product I found personally for me to be very effective for brightening up my skin tone and lightening some dark spots, hyperpigmentation. What I like about this is that it's arbutin, and it's also kojic acid, and it's also licorice root, so those three are very gentle pigment lightening ingredients to brighten and improve skin tone, and they tackle slightly different aspects of the pigment producing machinery in a slightly different way, so they exhibit synergy. The formula overall is also very hydrating and moisturizing, and I've got news for you: when it comes to improving the appearance of hyperpigmentation, there's something to be said for moisturizing, because improving the moisture content of the topmost layers of the skin, ultimately through light scattering, helps dark spots appear less noticeable. For example, if you have dark spots on your skin, hyperpigmentation, it's a lot more obvious if your skin's dry. Moisturizing can just by light scattering help that, and moisturizing also improves barrier function, cutting down on the potential for you to develop irritation, which ultimately works against hyperpigmentation. So it's a very hydrating serum. I apply it, I actually usually only apply it once a day, although arbutin can be used twice a day, and I of course am really aggressive with my sun protection when I use it."
"I got to say the Virtue Healing Oil. [...] Since discovering the Virtue Healing Oil, I actually completely forgot about the Orbe one because what I like so much about the Virtue Healing Oil is, you know, I have pretty fine textured hair, like my individual strands are pretty fine and so a lot of hair products weigh it down and I almost never put things like that up here on the crown. Well, the Virtue Healing Oil I definitely can use up there."
"Paula's Choice 10% Azelaic Acid Booster is almost always going to make an appearance in these Sephora what to buy type videos [...] because when it comes to azelaic acid, an ingredient that is very helpful for redness, for hyperpigmentation, for acne breakouts, as a cosmetic ingredient there are a handful of products out there that have this ingredient, this has to be the best one in my personal experience testing out many. Azelaic acid that you buy in cosmetic products here in the US is not the same strength as what you get from a prescription product, but it shows promise as being helpful especially for addressing some of these issues. In addition to azelaic acid though, this has licorice root which again is good for redness dark spots and it also has a little bit of salicylic acid 0.5% so helpful for breakout prone skin cutting down on blackhead and whitehead formation. Azelaic acid can kind of tingle a little bit maybe make your face itch a bit. I have never found that to be the case with this product specifically, but it does happen for some people. By and large azelaic acid is well tolerated and it can be used alongside other ingredients. This is a great product to complement, maybe even a retinol. You could use it in the morning if you wanted to in an effort to help hasten the clearance of say dark spots for example."
"The Ordinary's lactic acid serum is just as good as a fraction of the price. [...] Objectively speaking, using it, trying it out, it works, it's not bad."
How many serums has Dr Dray reviewed?
Dr Dray has reviewed 63 serums, for a Guru Score of 62%. 39 approved, 16 mixed, and 8 skipped.
What has Dr Dray skipped in serums?
Her eight skips across 63 serums are relatively few. But they cluster around two things: ingredients she thinks the evidence does not support, and packaging that defeats the formula. She skipped The Ordinary Growth Factor 15% Solution because she calls growth factors in skincare a line of nonsense marketing claims. She says they do little more than moisturise. The Some By Mi Beta Panthenol Repair Serum got skipped for a different reason. Its dropper could not draw up the thick formula at all. That made it too frustrating to use consistently, no matter how good the ingredients were.
"Bio oil, anyone who says that this is helpful, they're getting essentially the benefits of using mineral oil to lubricate the scar, cut down on frictional forces, but they're adding in a steeper price point, $38.49 mind you, plus fragrance which again can be irritating, not always but for some people it can be irritating. Fragrance and essential oils ultimately will worsen the appearance of the scar, so this is not something I recommend. People who use it and claim that it helped their scars, just know it worked by lubricating the skin surface. You can get that same effect for half the price without the risk of irritation from fragrance just by using mineral oil or any of the skin protectants."
"Don't buy it. This packaging is all wrong. [...] The dropper is pretty short and just the overall shape of this bottle, the dropper ends up tunneling into the product and all the product gets pushed to the sides of the container. It's very difficult to get any sucked up into the pipette into the dropper with each one, so you've constantly got to be moving it around to try and get product up into the little dispenser. It's the worst packaging. This is not it. This dropper is not it. The formula is just too thick for the dropper."
"Abreva is so lame. You have to use it five times a day and it cuts down the duration of cold sores by maybe one day. It's the lamest thing. $36.99 for the two treatments. If you get recurrent cold sores, [...] that is not a good use of your resources. It's a [...] very negligible impact and a lot of effort."
"Growth factors are like in skincare as a marketing hype, a precursor [...] to PDRN and exosomes nonsense claims that don't hold up at all. Putting growth factors on your skin, that's not going to do anything. They're not doing anything in skincare. Maybe they're moisturizing."
What should you take from Dr Dray's picks?
Her serum record is most useful for people who want to know whether an ingredient actually earns its place. She leans toward formulas where actives work as a team. She is honest about value and takes a firm line against claims she thinks the evidence does not support. Two of her four named picks, the Maelove Fade Away Brightening Serum and the Abib Glutathione Dark Spot Serum, are products she used in her own routine. That gives those recommendations particular weight.
Watch Dr Dray say it
Every verdict here comes from a video. These are the moments themselves, each one jumping straight to the bit about that product.
- Paula's Choice 7% Ectoin BoosterNamed a winnerWatch at 2:44
- Maelove Fade Away Brightening SerumNamed a winnerWatch at 11:52
- Abib Glutathione Dark Spot SerumNamed a winnerWatch at 1:47
- AmLactin 12% Lactic Acid LotionNamed a winnerWatch at 9:58
- Bio-OilSkipped itWatch at 13:50
- Some By Mi Beta Panthenol Repair SerumSkipped itWatch at 9:22
- Abreva Cold Sore TreatmentSkipped itWatch at 10:22
- The Ordinary Growth Factor 15% SolutionSkipped itWatch at 7:55
- Eucerin Radiant Tone Dual SerumSkipped itWatch at 9:51
- Clarins Double SerumSkipped itWatch at 9:05
- Tula Brightening Treatment Drops Triple Vitamin C SerumSkipped itWatch at 8:23
- The INKEY List Ectoin Hydro-Barrier SerumSkipped itWatch at 4:05
- Virtue Healing OilRated itWatch at 8:31
- Paula's Choice 10% Azelaic Acid BoosterRated itWatch at 5:57
- The Ordinary Lactic Acid 10% + Hyaluronic AcidRated itWatch at 11:41
- SkinMedica TNS Advanced+ SerumRated itWatch at 10:18
- Timeless Coenzyme Q10 SerumRated itWatch at 7:01
- Cocokind Ceramide Barrier SerumRated itWatch at 5:36
- BYOMA Hydrating SerumRated itWatch at 19:42
- The INKEY List Polyglutamic Acid SerumRated itWatch at 6:28
- Paula's Choice Discoloration Repair SerumRated itWatch at 14:01
- La Roche-Posay Hyalu B5 SerumRated itWatch at 16:50
- Paul Mitchell Super Skinny SerumRated itWatch at 9:14
- Tree Hut Watermelon Shave OilRated itWatch at 15:03
About this expert
See everything Dr Dray has reviewed
Related guides
This guide reflects what Dr Dray said across their videos about 63 products in serums, aggregated by The Guru Index. Sponsored takes are excluded. The Guru Score is our read on how warmly they talk about them. It is general information, not medical advice.