Dr. Daniel Sugai is a dermatologist who has reviewed a lot of products for acne-prone skin. He carries an approval rate of 89%, which means he approved most of what he looked at but was still selective. He gave the large majority a Yay, and he was mixed on or passed on only a few.
What does Dr. Daniel Sugai recommend for acne-prone skin?
What he keeps coming back to is pairing benzoyl peroxide with a retinoid. He recommends a benzoyl peroxide cleanser at night, then waiting a few minutes before applying a retinoid like Differin Adapalene Gel 0.1%, which he calls his favourite step for anyone who is not pregnant. He also likes La Roche-Posay Effaclar Adapalene Gel 0.1% and Neutrogena Stubborn Acne AM Treatment as solid adapalene options. One thing he is clear about: alternate them by day rather than layer two retinoids on top of each other, because stacking them can trigger a bad contact dermatitis, meaning serious skin irritation. For benzoyl peroxide cleansers, he rates both CeraVe Acne Foaming Cream Cleanser with 4% Benzoyl Peroxide and PanOxyl 4% Benzoyl Peroxide Wash. He suggests swapping between the two to keep pores clear without stripping the skin's moisture barrier. He also singles out Naturium Azelaic Acid Emulsion 10% as his pick for an over-the-counter azelaic acid option.
Dr. Daniel Sugai's acne picks, in his words
"Supergoop, their Mattescreen, they came out with different shades, so that's great because not one shade fits all skin tones, and so I use the sunrise, but they also have golden hour and sunset. If you want to blur out the pores, you want a matte finish and you have oilier skin, go for the Mattescreen. So good job to Supergoop for that."
"Their new UV Clear Oil Blemish acne fighting sunscreen with 5% niacinamide is also a hybrid and one that has impressed me this year."
"I believe adapalene 0.1% and 0.3% work better on these blackheads and whiteheads and also inflammatory acne like tretinoin and tazarotene. So I would go with adapalene."
"I just started using this sunscreen this year. One of my favorite hydrating sunscreens. [...] I like the texture of this one. For those who have dry, dehydrated skin, this is a little thicker texture, but still very lightweight, but not watery. [...] It goes on like a thicker cream, but it just blends in so well. If you have dry, dehydrated skin, it's going to trap in all that moisture."
"CeraVe makes a nice creamy foaming wash that has 4% benzoyl peroxide. [...] So different brands that have made nice benzoyl peroxide products that you can consider that's exfoliating and also kills the bacteria that's feeding off of the trapped sebum leading to acne. So I actually have both in my bathroom and I will alternate between the two."
"Those are great cleansers to alternate by the day to help exfoliate and keep your pores clear without destroying your skin's moisture barrier."
How many products has Dr. Daniel Sugai reviewed for acne-prone skin?
Dr. Daniel Sugai has reviewed 43 products for acne-prone skin, for an approval rate of 86%. 37 approved, 2 mixed, and 4 skipped.
What has Dr. Daniel Sugai skipped for acne-prone skin?
He passed on only a few products, and irritation runs through most of them. He does not care for The Ordinary AHA 30% + BHA 2% Peeling Solution. He says it is so strong that patients overuse it, and he would use it about once a week. He has also seen patients get irritated by Paula's Choice Skin Perfecting 2% BHA Liquid Exfoliant, and he urges real care with leave-on exfoliants, especially alongside a retinoid. He would cut dedicated niacinamide serums like The Ordinary Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1%, because high levels can lead to contact dermatitis, a red, irritated rash. He also passed on La Roche-Posay Mela B3 Dark Spot Corrector Serum. He says he has used it a fair amount since it launched and has been disappointed. Neither he nor his patients were impressed by its Melasyl ingredient, which was meant to rival prescription hydroquinone for fading dark spots.
"I don't really care for The Ordinary AHA 30% + BHA 2% Peeling Solution, that leave on that vampire purplish red solution. The chemical peel like effect that patients are getting is nice in terms of that deep pore cleaning action. It's really exfoliating the skin, but I've seen patients overuse it and I'd say you would use that like once a week. It's so powerful. Summer time, you got to be very careful with the sun. So, I would say be careful with the strong leave on exfoliants."
"I was really excited about the new Melasyl ingredient, and the research results look great. But when I and my patients tried it, including samples and full sizes, we saw no results. I was very disappointed by the real-world results, so I would say skip it for now."
"I could never recommend this product or just any niacinamide serum, even if it's made by La Roche-Posay. Niacinamide at high percentages at 10, 15, 20% is just way too high. Just like too much of a good thing is not good. In studies all you need are 2 to 4% of niacinamide to help regulate sebum, help with brightening the skin and repairing the skin barrier."
"I've even seen patients get irritation from Paula's Choice BHA solution. So, with leave-on exfoliants, be very, very careful, especially if you're using a retinoid. Just be careful."
What should you take from Dr. Daniel Sugai's picks?
Dr. Daniel Sugai's record on acne-prone skin is useful because he is specific about how to use things, not just what to buy. His main message is to build a routine around a benzoyl peroxide cleanser and an adapalene retinoid, keep them separate rather than layering, and add azelaic acid if needed. The products he passed on are worth keeping in mind, especially for anyone dealing with dark spots or breakouts that come with irritation.
Watch Dr. Daniel Sugai say it
Every verdict here comes from a video. These are the moments themselves, each one jumping straight to the bit about that product.
- Supergoop MattescreenNamed a winnerWatch at 9:46
- The Ordinary AHA 30% + BHA 2% Peeling SolutionSkipped itWatch at 5:24
- La Roche-Posay Mela B3 Dark Spot Corrector SerumSkipped itWatch at 9:26
- The Ordinary Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1%Skipped itWatch at 12:35
- Paula's Choice 2% BHA Liquid ExfoliantSkipped itWatch at 5:53
- EltaMD UV Clear Blemish Prone and Oil Balancing SPF 50Rated itWatch at 5:49
- Differin Adapalene Gel 0.1%Rated itWatch at 7:16
- Beauty of Joseon Matte Sun Stick SPF 50Rated itWatch at 1:19
- CeraVe Acne Foaming Cream Cleanser with 4% Benzoyl PeroxideRated itWatch at 8:55
- PanOxyl 4% Benzoyl Peroxide Cleansing WashRated itWatch at 4:14
- Cetaphil Gentle Clear Mattifying Acne Moisturizer Salicylic Acid TreatmentRated itWatch at 2:32
- Neutrogena Stubborn Acne AM Treatment 2.5% Benzoyl PeroxideRated itWatch at 4:56
- La Roche-Posay Effaclar Adapalene Gel 0.1%Rated itWatch at 7:25
- PanOxyl 10% Benzoyl Peroxide WashRated itWatch at 5:33
- EltaMD UV Clear Tinted SPF 46Rated itWatch at 3:59
- SkinFix Acne Plus 2% BHA CleanserRated itWatch at 13:16
- COSRX Salicylic Acid Daily Gentle CleanserRated itWatch at 2:58
- Neutrogena Adapalene 0.1% GelRated itWatch at 11:45
- Differin 4% or 10% Benzoyl Peroxide WashRated itWatch at 13:47
- Cetaphil Gentle Exfoliating Salicylic Acid CleanserRated itWatch at 5:08
- CeraVe Resurfacing Retinol SerumRated itWatch at 7:35
- ISDIN Eryfotona Actinica SPF 50Rated itWatch at 8:55
- CeraVe Renewing SA CleanserRated itWatch at 10:37
- CeraVe Anti-Dandruff Shampoo with Zinc PyrithioneRated itWatch at 9:34
About this expert
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This guide reflects what Dr. Daniel Sugai said across his videos about 43 products for acne-prone skin, aggregated by The Guru Index. Sponsored takes are excluded. The approval rate is the share of these products he approved. It is general information, not medical advice.