Index / What Works / Dr. Vanita Rattan on sensitive skin

Dr. Vanita Rattan on Sensitive Skin Products, and What She Skips

Across 66 sensitive skin products, she brings a formulator's eye to every ingredient list and a Guru Score of 67% to show for it.

67%Guru Score
44 Approved7 Mixed15 Skip

Dr. Vanita Rattan is a doctor and a trained cosmetic formulator. When she picks up a product, she reads the ingredient list the way it was meant to be read. She goes through each ingredient and calls out exactly what it does for or against the skin. She has reviewed 66 products for sensitive skin, given her stamp of approval to 44 of them, and skipped 15.

What does Dr. Vanita Rattan recommend for sensitive skin?

Ceramides are the ingredient she comes back to most. She explains that skin of color naturally has fewer ceramides in the skin barrier. That makes them especially important in a daily moisturizer for anyone trying to hold onto hydration. Glycerin, panthenol, and niacinamide also come up warmly in her approved takes. Niacinamide works best in the 2-to-5 percent range, she says, where it actually does the work. She consistently favors products with the NPA-safe mark too. That means no denatured alcohol, no fragrance, and no essential oils that could sensitize the skin.

In their words

"It's got non-nano zinc oxide. It's got the National Eczema Association seal. No fragrance, no alcohol, no comedogens. And it also contains anti-inflammatory botanical. For me, the final verdict is this the gold standard for acne foundations for skin of color right now."
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"It's got solvents, glycerin, which I love, your water magnet. Then it's got peptides, which are basically like chemical messengers between cells to help rejuvenate skin cells. It's got panthenol, which is anti-inflammatory, plus ceramides. And ceramides are key if you have a damaged skin barrier. So I actually love this product. Bioma, you've done an outstanding job."
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"I like this product. [...] I'm a cosmetic formulator myself, and I know how much love and care has to go into every formula and the thought process, so when I see products that I would purchase myself and I would tell you to go and purchase, I am actually very grateful. [...] The first ingredient is snail secretion filtrate, and the first ingredient means it has the highest percentage. This snail secretion mucus that everyone's raving about, all over Korean skincare, actually comes from the garden snail, Cornu aspersum, and it's [...] the secretion it releases when it's stressed. Snail secretion has got proteoglycans in it, glycoproteins, enzymes, glucosaminoglycans, hyaluronic acid, and copper peptides. This is all fantastic because this is what your skin needs, this is food for your skin. As soon as I finished researching COSRX and doing my in-depth investigation, I went and purchased it myself."
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"The Ordinary does a really good azelaic acid. What you would do is you do your face wash, your exfoliator, your azelaic acid in the evening and then go in with your moisturizer. That will basically just help with any red marks left behind but also keep all the acne at bay. [...] I haven't had a new pimple or any brand new spot on my face. [...] It's literally kept it under control."
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"Looking into The Ordinary Soothing and Barrier Support Serum, [...] this is very expensive for The Ordinary range, they're almost breaking three of the five and ten single actives with this particular product. [...] It is expensive for The Ordinary but it does actually make sense if you do a deep dive into the ingredients. Fifth ingredient here is niacinamide which is good because it means it's in that 2 to 5% range which is what we're looking for. They've got imoan and humant in this, so the soothers in this product are babassu which I love, it's got galactaric glucoside, it's got zingiber root extract too, so three different soothers, plus they've added phospholipids which is a skin identical ingredient, especially if you strip the skin of fats it's good to reload with fats. I like that this product is NPA safe as well, meaning no denatured alcohol which dries the skin, no fragrance which can lead to contact dermatitis and no essential oils which can sensitize the skin."
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"Ceramides are so important for skin of color because we have less ceramides in our skin anyway, and those are the fats that retain water, so we actually do need ceramides in our moisturizer daily to get the maximum glow and to create the maximum healing environment for the skin. I routinely cycle this, and if I don't use it I could really feel a difference on myself. [...] I really love how it's lightweight. [...] I'm actually got a bit of oily skin too, but this really is beautiful because I also use retinol and prescription strength, so I find that I need something that really keeps me hydrated and gives me the glow at the same time. You can sometimes peel with the retinol, and [...] this is beautiful. It's really lightweight and just so nice."
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How many products has Dr. Vanita Rattan reviewed for sensitive skin?

Dr. Vanita Rattan has reviewed 66 products for sensitive skin, for a Guru Score of 67%. 44 approved, 7 mixed, and 15 skipped.

What has Dr. Vanita Rattan skipped for sensitive skin?

Fragrance is the ingredient that costs a product her approval most often. She skipped the Anua Peach 77% Niacinamide Enriched Cream despite liking the rest of the formula. The added fragrance made it a no for people with sensitive and acne-prone skin. Essential oils get the same treatment. In another review, she called bergamot and lavender outright irritants and skin sensitizers. They pull water out of the skin rather than holding it in. The Minimalist PHA Toner drew a skip too. It is not harmful. The problem is the packaging, which suggests daily use when she would only recommend it once or twice a week.

What should you take from Dr. Vanita Rattan's picks?

Dr. Vanita Rattan is one of the more thorough voices on sensitive skin because she reads formulas, not press releases. Her three named winners are CeraVe Hydrating Facial Cleanser, CeraVe Moisturizing Cream, and Tower 28 Sunny Days SPF 30. Her full record shows that a product does not have to be expensive to earn her approval. A high price tag with the wrong ingredients will lose her quickly.

Watch Dr. Vanita Rattan say it

Every verdict here comes from a video. These are the moments themselves, each one jumping straight to the bit about that product.

About this expert

See everything Dr. Vanita Rattan has reviewed

Related guides

This guide reflects what Dr. Vanita Rattan said across their videos about 66 products for sensitive skin, aggregated by The Guru Index. Sponsored takes are excluded. The Guru Score is our read on how warmly they talk about them. It is general information, not medical advice.