Cassandra Bankson has reviewed 52 serums. The seven she named a category winner show exactly what she values. She looks for formulas that earn their price, and she will say so plainly when an expensive product fails that test.
What does Cassandra Bankson recommend in serums?
Her highest marks go to serums built around good humectants. Humectants are ingredients that pull moisture into the skin and hold it there. Hyaluronic acid, glycerin, and panthenol (vitamin B5) all do that, and they show up in her approvals again and again. She also praises oil-soluble vitamin C over the water-soluble kind. The oil-soluble form can get through the skin's surface and reach deeper layers, where it works on dark spots and fine lines. Both The INKEY List Mandelic Acid Treatment at $11 and The Ordinary Hyaluronic Acid 2% + B5 at under $7 made her list of seven named winners. That tells you value matters as much to her as the formula.
In her words
"I love this so much that I used all the product. This is the Mandelic Acid Treatment from The Inky List. This is basically a spot treatment, but I use this as a serum on my skin. This is hydrating, it is effective, it is anti-pigmentary, it is anti-acne, and it's eleven dollars. It says that it's formulated for all skin, and I do feel like I can use it on my oily skin, or I can recommend it to people that are dry. This is the snack jar of skincare. This is the one I'm always looking for. I love this from The Inky List for the price, for what you get, for how tiny the little bottle is, but how it goes such a long way. This really cannot be beat, especially for the price and how it works. This is the top mandelic acid product that I've used on my skin or recommended to others, and I cannot rave about this enough. What's also fantastic about this formula is that it has jojoba oil, which mimics our skin's oils naturally. I love jojoba. My skin loves it. A lot of other people do too, because it really helps to strengthen a skin barrier. On top of that, this has rice bran, which is a beta glucan option that really helps to hydrate the skin. Although this isn't the same as Skincare by Hiram, it's a little bit thicker. I feel like this works so much better. You can use this day or night, although they recommend it at night."
"I absolutely love this Peptide Glazing Fluid. You can see it leaves such a dewy glowy look on the skin and has peptides and marula oil and hyaluronic acid so it has all these really beautiful amazing ingredients that are great for hydration."
"This is the 35% Vitamin C Perfecting Serum and what's amazing about this is that it's an oil-soluble form of vitamin C. This can actually absorb into the skin because our skin is made up of oil and most vitamin C is water soluble, meaning it has a hard time getting in. Using an oil soluble vitamin C it can actually penetrate into the skin and get into the nucleus of the cell where it needs to work on things like hyperpigmentation fine lines and wrinkles. As a bonus because this is oil soluble it actually works for living under the water because if you don't seal it in with an oil it's all gonna get washed away. This is an expensive option at one hundred and forty dollars, but this is fantastic. It's a waterless base so for dry skin and for living under the sea this is an absolute slam dunk. The main ingredients include different forms of vitamin C, ascorbic acid and tetrahexadecyl ascorbic which is the oil soluble form, superoxide dismutase and a glutathione complex."
"This is technically called the Dose of Wisdom Bouncy Skin Reactivating Serum and boy does this plump up the face. This has hyaluronic acid, vitamin C, adenosine, and a plantain leaf extract which is anti-inflammatory. I was super lucky because I got to try this before it came out. I used it in cold weather, then I took it to Dubai and Abu Dhabi where it was hot and humid. My skin became so bouncy, so happy, so luminous, and visibly plumped when I applied it. When I forgot it on the plane and my skin got dehydrated, I immediately reapplied it when I got home and holy my face felt brand new. I was impressed by my experience and seeing the study they did on 106 women. This is also amazing because Philosophy is officially leaping bunny certified. If you're looking for plump bouncy juicy hydrated skin with adenosine and hyaluronic acid and vitamin C which also helps with radiance and luminosity, this one does it."
"Some Collagen Peptide Serum could save the day. The Collagen Peptide Serum from the Inkey List does not label itself as a hyaluronic acid serum but it does have hyaluronic acid in it and when you actually look at it, it is extremely plumping, helps to support the skin barrier, helps to nourish the skin, grabs hydration and pulls it into the skin because of the peptides and collagen in here. Collagen and peptide sides are humectants and they can draw moisture into the skin for 72 hours. This one from the Inkey List does this for a fraction of the price, and it is also vegan collagen which we love to see. It's not $90, which also makes this much better and more affordable to use regularly because you need to use skincare regularly in order for it to work."
"I love the Ordinary Hyaluronic Acid 2% plus B5 Hydrating Serum. This specifically has B5 as panthenol which we love, and we also love hyaluronic acid because it is a humectant so it can hold on to moisture and draw that into the skin. It also has glycerin, so it's very hydrating to the skin, and then it has a red algae extract, so really good for antioxidants. For $6 and 80 cents, like you cannot beat this. I know it's a small amount but it works well."
How many serums has Cassandra Bankson reviewed?
Cassandra Bankson has reviewed 52 serums, for a Guru Score of 60%. 31 approved, 13 mixed, and 8 skipped.
What has Cassandra Bankson skipped in serums?
She skips serums when a high price is not backed up by the formula. She made that point about both the Le Domaine Serum at €350 and the Westman Atelier Skin Activator Serum at $150, saying both rely on basic, inexpensive ingredients. Fragrance and animal testing can also lose a serum her approval. Both are reasons the La Roche-Posay Mela B3 Dark Spot Corrector Serum earned a skip from her.
"This serum costs €350 for one fluid ounce and contains basic ingredients like grapefruit water, glycerin, grape extracts, and sodium hyaluronate—the cheaper salt version of hyaluronic acid. The fact that they're charging this much money while using inexpensive ingredient options is hilarious. You can get similar or better formulations for $12.99 to $17 from K Beauty brands or drugstore options."
"This is an $85 vitamin C serum. It's tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, which is a very good form of vitamin C, but there are other vitamin Cs that have this form of vitamin C that work very well and actually have a light sealed container, whereas this one's just clear glass. I also tried these products—the C.E.O. oil and the C.E.O. cream—and both of them broke me out horribly. I'm a little bit more sensitive to citrus and maybe that's why this broke me out. I just don't recommend this and it's really expensive for what it is. If you are looking for a tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate that's really good and not like $85, The Ordinary has one that's like 10 bucks and I would highly recommend this."
"They essentially have this Mela B3 serum and it's kind of like this light purple color and it's a vitamin B serum that is niacinamide and it's not very special it has fragrance it's gone viral on the internet but it's like 44 to 50 bucks. And they also test on animals which is why I don't use them. If you buy it here it's like 40, 50, 60 bucks like what the La Roche-Posay can be a no no."
"It claims that it's a hyper potent three in one serum that floods skin with 12 actives to soften fine lines boost firmness and deeply hydrate for 150 dollars, but looking at the ingredients, it's basically water and glycerin, which are some of the cheapest things you can find in drugstore moisturizers. For a hundred and fifty dollars you can literally get these exact same ingredients in something so much cheaper. I'm not impressed."
What should you take from Cassandra Bankson's picks?
Cassandra is not swayed by a big brand name or a high price. Her record of 52 serum reviews makes that plain. She found that some of the best serums cost under $15, and some of the most expensive ones did not earn their price. Her seven named category winners make a useful shortlist for anyone drawn to the way she thinks about formulas.
Watch Cassandra Bankson say it
Every verdict here comes from a video. These are the moments themselves, each one jumping straight to the bit about that product.
- The Ordinary Hyaluronic Acid 2% + B5Named a winnerWatch at 6:45
- The Ordinary Ascorbic Acid 8% + Alpha Arbutin 2%Named a winnerWatch at 6:08
- The Ordinary Pycnogenol 5%Named a winnerWatch at 2:03
- The INKEY List Mandelic Acid TreatmentNamed a winnerWatch at 11:02
- Paula's Choice Niacinamide 20% TreatmentNamed a winnerWatch at 12:07
- Allies of Skin 35% Vitamin C Perfecting SerumNamed a winnerWatch at 5:01
- Philosophy Dose of Wisdom Bouncy Skin Reactivating SerumNamed a winnerWatch at 7:13
- Le Domaine SerumSkipped itWatch at 30:24
- Sunday Riley C.E.O. 15% Vitamin C Brightening SerumSkipped itWatch at 3:35
- La Roche-Posay Mela B3 Dark Spot Corrector SerumSkipped itWatch at 6:15
- Westman Atelier Skin Activator SerumSkipped itWatch at 12:45
- Drunk Elephant Virgin Marula Luxury Facial OilSkipped itWatch at 2:46
- Drunk Elephant C-Firma Fresh Day SerumSkipped itWatch at 0:13
- SKKN Night OilSkipped itWatch at 16:35
- Drunk Elephant C-Firma Fresh Day SerumSkipped itWatch at 12:56
- Rhode Peptide Glazing FluidRated itWatch at 8:03
- The INKEY List Collagen Peptide SerumRated itWatch at 8:29
- Glow Recipe Watermelon Glow Hyaluronic Clay Pore Tight FacialRated itWatch at 4:45
- Tarte Maracuja OilRated itWatch at 5:13
- Paula's Choice Skin Perfecting 2% BHA Liquid ExfoliantRated itWatch at 10:51
- Medicube Age-R Booster ProRated itWatch at 7:28
- Cocokind Ceramide Barrier SerumRated itWatch at 8:11
- Murad Rapid Dark Spot Correcting SerumRated itWatch at 18:13
- The Ordinary Multi-Peptide + Copper Peptides 1% SerumRated itWatch at 18:59
About this expert
See everything Cassandra Bankson has reviewed
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This guide reflects what Cassandra Bankson said across their videos about 52 products in serums, aggregated by The Guru Index. Sponsored takes are excluded. The Guru Score is our read on how warmly they talk about them. It is general information, not medical advice.