The Guru IndexReviewersDr Sam Bunting
Dr Sam Bunting
Dermatologist

Dr Sam Bunting.

Dr Sam Bunting has reviewed 23 products across 21 videos indexed here: 18 approved, 2 skipped.

23Products
18 approved90% approval rate
2 skippedDoesn't pull punches
2 hot takesWhere they break from the pack
By the numbers

What they review most.

Against the grain

Dr Sam Bunting's hot takes.

Products where their take diverges from the rest of the gurus.

Dr Sam Bunting: Skip vs gurus 70% Approved
There was benzoyl peroxide at 10 strength, good old Panoxyl. The formulations back then were so far removed from how benzoyl peroxide is formulated nowadays, so irritating that it caused a barrier issue, and the potholes on my skin were created by using actives that were too strong for my skin, with no retinoid in the picture at all.
Dr Sam Bunting: Skip vs gurus 61% Approved
My mom took me to the Clinique counter for the three-step: the golden yellow bar, a face stripping toner, and then covering it all up with dramatically different moisturizers.
Every take, in full

Every review.

All 23 products Dr Sam Bunting has reviewed, grouped by product type. Click a product to see the full guru consensus.

All takes Approved only Skip only Against the gurus
Moisturizers6 reviews
"For me, Moisturizer Intense is the perfect moisturizer for in the air. I might have formulated it specifically with the dry air of air travel in mind, because of the array of occlusive, barrier building ingredients and future proofing ingredients as well, so it really helps oppose all the stress that goes on in the air cabin."
Approved
90%approval rating
"Flawless Neutralizing Gel contains a combination of 5% azelaic acid with a strong 2% salicylic acid, that's really going to help bust those comedones, in combination with 0.5% fuchsia or plant retinal, which is great for clearing pores and also helping settle any inflammatory blemishes that you have as well as those comedones. It's also got squalane, which is super gentle and can help reduce the tendency for those dry marks."
Approved
83%approval rating
"Flawless moisturizer is a little richer but also contains that crucial 5% niacinamide."
Approved
83%approval rating
"This one comes in the same 40 ml size as the Avène product, around the same price, around the 10 pound mark. In terms of barrier repair with Cicaplast we have shea butter, silicones and glycerin, so this one maybe feels a little bit heavier and more paste-like on the skin, slightly more sophisticated in finish, but still feels quite functional. We've got zinc and manganese in here, and prebiotics, plus panthenol which is good for repair. They're great to have in the bathroom cabinet for sore chapped skin, suitable for use on just about any part of the body. The drawbacks are that if you want to use this during the day to tackle an upset barrier you're going to struggle, it doesn't sit well under sunscreen and makeup, it's very much the kind of thing you'd put on to soothe the skin at nighttime, and I've definitely had a few patients who've reported acne breaking out with using Cicaplast for a prolonged period of time. A perfect little rescue for sore areas, but with barrier repair having come so far we can probably do better when it comes to cosmetic elegance and user friendliness."
~Mixed
86%approval rating
"If you want something that's suitable for use day and night, that works well under makeup but is equally powerful enough to support your nighttime retinoid use, then Flawless Moisturizer Intense is what I'd plump for. It's £32 for 50 mls and I think of it as being a really full service barrier repair cream. You have the elegance of occlusive ingredients, squalane and glycerin, to have that nice base for hydration, but you also have the power of sunflower seed extract as the first barrier repair cream to contain this ingredient, to help power up your skin's battery and enable it to heal itself more rapidly and effectively. Plus you have madecassoside in there, that Korean skincare element, those lovely antioxidant, anti-inflammatory powers, ceramides, squalane, the list is long, but essentially it's really effective and it's also going to work with your existing skincare routine. I think this is brilliant for anybody who's using retinoids, especially as we head into winter, or is just thinking about starting their retinoid journey. I think it's suitable for use with most skin types except those who've got very oily skin, who might just find it a little bit too dewy, but for everyone else I think it's going to work really well, especially in cold weather, and despite being quite substantial it won't block pores, so it's really safe for those with acne. I think it takes a lot of boxes."
Approved
Notverified
"The final one is a little more spendy, this is Dermalogica Stabilizing Repair Cream and it comes in at £65 for 50 mls. I think this is good for those of us with dry skin, perhaps more mature skin, a formula that's really well considered for probably a postmenopausal complexion where the need for replenishing essential lipids and ceramides is high, and it has a really lovely reassuring and nourishing texture, very comforting on the skin. It does take a little bit of time to soak in completely, but it feels elegant, it feels pleasurable, and particularly for nighttime use it's a really lovely supportive barrier repair cream to use on the skin. It's also got some interesting ingredients, bisabolol and an ingredient called Brahmi root extract, which I've never heard of, which is apparently used extensively in Ayurvedic medicine, but calming, soothing, no fragrance, great for mature skin, and probably that little bit of a treat."
Approved
83%approval rating
Serums5 reviews
"Those on a budget might want to layer more affordable serums to get the combination of salicylic acid and azelaic acid. The Ordinary's 10% azelaic acid serum is a good one to try."
Approved
72%approval rating
All 2 takes on Azelaic Acid Suspension 10%
Perioral Dermatitis or Acne? How to Tell the Difference | Dr Sam Bunting
"You could try something like the 10% azelaic acid suspension from The Ordinary, which is a simple and uncomplicated over the counter way of getting hold of this useful ingredient."
Effective Skincare Routine for Closed Comedones | Dr Sam Bunting
"Those on a budget might want to layer more affordable serums to get the combination of salicylic acid and azelaic acid. The Ordinary's 10% azelaic acid serum is a good one to try."
"Next you could consider Paula's Choice Azelaic Acid Booster, which contains 10% azelaic acid and 0.5% salicylic acid and also some licorice extract, which is good for pigmentation."
Approved
74%approval rating
All 2 takes on 10% Azelaic Acid Booster
Effective Skincare Routine for Closed Comedones | Dr Sam Bunting
"Next you could consider Paula's Choice Azelaic Acid Booster, which contains 10% azelaic acid and 0.5% salicylic acid and also some licorice extract, which is good for pigmentation."
How To Treat Closed Comedones | Dr Sam Bunting
"As a way to combine BHA and azelaic acid together at night, she points to the Paula's Choice Azelaic Acid Booster, which contains both, as an option alongside considering benzoyl peroxide at a lower percentage."
"My go to is azelaic acid, this powerful anti-inflammatory multitasking ingredient really is the mainstay of my clinical practice when it comes to treating people in the clinic with perioral dermatitis. My preference is using Finacea, which is 15% azelaic acid gel, on prescription."
Approved
75%approval rating
"This is The Ordinary Soothing and Barrier Support Serum, it comes in at £7.50 for 30 mls. When I think of barrier support I don't necessarily think of a serum, and a lot of people naturally lean towards something a bit heavier, but for those who have oily skin but are prone to sensitivity there is something appealing about a more light textured product when it comes to layering, especially for a morning routine. The formulation leans heavily on elements found in centella asiatica, so three different components of centella, plus some niacinamide, and the bright pink color which is due to the inclusion of vitamin B12 or cobalamin. That's the part where I start to get a little bit hesitant because there isn't a huge amount of data for that particular ingredient, vitamin B12 certainly isn't one of the immediate ingredients I think of when I think of barrier repair, I've not really seen much about it in the literature, and I do think it's probably there to give it its very Instagrammable color. However the rest of the formulation is good, niacinamide is a great ingredient, particularly if you are oily but sensitive because it supports skin barrier function and it's highly anti-inflammatory, a reassuring ingredient if you're acne prone, and it could easily be layered, I'd almost say it needs to be layered with something a little heavier on the occlusives. I do think you'll need a little extra between you and your sunscreen if you want this to sit well on your skin all day. An interesting lineup of ingredients, a nice texture if you like something to layer, but I don't think it's going to meet the needs of anybody with a skin type that isn't oily, if you're combination or dry you're probably going to want something with a little bit more. Compared to the other two, this is probably not a full service barrier treatment, you definitely need some kind of occlusive in there, but it's more suitable for daytime than the Cicaplast and the Cicalfate."
~Mixed
80%approval rating
"Brightly is the AM step, dosed evenly all over for brightening and radiance, but not used on the eye area since the acid doesn't belong there. It's great for redness, great for closed comedones and blemishes, great for texture, and great for almost everyone."
Approved
77%approval rating
Other3 reviews
"Next I'm going in with Nightly Pro. I alternate between that and tretinoin. My skin is just a little dry from travel recently, so I'm just having a Nightly Pro night, but that's just my personal choice to lower the intensity, so I'm not doing tret every single night. You really don't need more than a pea sized amount, if you're using a cream with Nightly Pro that's one pump, a little goes a long way. And if you're having to massage in lots and lots of retinoid product, you're probably using too much."
Approved
83%approval rating
All 2 takes on Nightly Pro
Wake Up to Better Skin - My Exact Night Routine | Dr Sam Bunting
"Next I'm going in with Nightly Pro. I alternate between that and tretinoin. My skin is just a little dry from travel recently, so I'm just having a Nightly Pro night, but that's just my personal choice to lower the intensity, so I'm not doing tret every single night. You really don't need more than a pea sized amount, if you're using a cream with Nightly Pro that's one pump, a little goes a long way. And if you're having to massage in lots and lots of retinoid product, you're probably using too much."
Effective Skincare Routine for Closed Comedones | Dr Sam Bunting
"Flawless nightly Pro is excellent, with 5% granactive retinoid in combination with niacinamide and bakuchiol, so it's excellent for those who are perhaps trying to tackle the signs of aging alongside tackling closed comedones."
"This is the large size of Cicalfate, it does come in a 40 ml size just like the La Roche-Posay product, they're around the same price, around the 10 pound mark. I think of them as being the kind of thing that's great to have in the bathroom cabinet for sore chapped skin, and they're suitable for use on just about any part of the body, on the face, in the private areas, on your baby's bottom if they've got nappy rash. They have quite a similar formula to the La Roche-Posay one, we have a mineral oil glycerin base in terms of the occlusive humectant side of things, some antibacterial metals, copper and zinc, and a postbiotic, which means treated bacteria have been included in the formula to help stimulate the skin immune system, plus panthenol, which is a good skin conditioning agent, good for repair. The drawbacks are that if you want to use this during the day to tackle an upset barrier you're going to struggle a bit, I don't think I have any patients who'd be happy putting these on during the day, they don't sit well under sunscreen and makeup, they're very much the kind of thing you'd put on to soothe the skin at nighttime. A great thing to have in the bathroom cabinet, a perfect little rescue for sore areas, but with barrier repair having come so far we can probably do better when it comes to cosmetic elegance and user friendliness."
~Mixed
80%approval rating
"My mom took me to the Clinique counter for the three-step: the golden yellow bar, a face stripping toner, and then covering it all up with dramatically different moisturizers."
Skip
61%approval rating
Acne2 reviews
"Those on a budget might want to layer more affordable serums to get the combination of salicylic acid and azelaic acid. The Ordinary's 2% salicylic acid solution is a good one to try."
Approved
76%approval rating
"There was benzoyl peroxide at 10 strength, good old Panoxyl. The formulations back then were so far removed from how benzoyl peroxide is formulated nowadays, so irritating that it caused a barrier issue, and the potholes on my skin were created by using actives that were too strong for my skin, with no retinoid in the picture at all."
Skip
70%approval rating
Cleansers2 reviews
"For those on a budget I like CeraVe's gentle hydrating cleanser."
Approved
83%approval rating
"For everyone else I recommend Dr Sam's Flawless cleanser."
Approved
87%approval rating
Lip2 reviews
"This is the Lisa Eldridge one, in just 3N, it hasn't really got a name, it's just 3N, and this is their sculpt and shade lip pencil. I normally line my lips and put any sort of color on top."
Approved
82%approval rating
"Not many people have done a great chocolate brown pencil. MAC have done a good one called Chestnut, which is a staple in many dark skinned black girls' makeup bags."
Approved
76%approval rating
Masks & Peels1 review
"If I'm going somewhere really far and it's overnight, I might pop on a mask. I don't mind a thick, juicy layer of a hydrating mask like Revival Mask, and I'll decant it into one of these cute little pots just for ease."
Approved
80%approval rating
Powder & Setting1 review
"The Laura Mercier translucent powder, I haven't gone back from this because it doesn't give flashback. If you take a photo you won't see a white cast around your eyes or face, which is so upsetting when you've worked really hard on your makeup and then the camera does that and you look like a ghost. I've gone through so many of these."
Approved
84%approval rating
Retinoids1 review
"If you're starting out in your retinoid journey, a good one to try, especially if you're on a budget, is The Inkey List Retinol Serum, which contains a blend of low strength retinol with low strength granactive retinoid, 0.5%. This is a great way of dipping your toe in the water."
Approved
66%approval rating

This week's top beauty news, in your inbox.

A weekly read of the takes worth catching up on: the raves, the splits, the ones the gurus won't shut up about. Free, no spam, unsubscribe whenever.

Subscribe to the digest