The Guru IndexGurus208SkinDoc
208SkinDoc
Dermatologist

208SkinDoc.

Dustin Portela, DO, reviews skincare products and addresses circulating skin hacks and misinformation across his channels, bringing a practicing dermatologist's eye to both everyday routines and the claims that tend to travel furthest online. His willingness to engage with popular products rather than speak in general terms is what makes his takes useful to watch.

Why Is He A Guru?
Board-certified dermatologic surgeon certified through the American Board of Dermatology.
210Products
174 yay94% approval rate
12 nayDoesn't pull punches
5 hot takesWhere he breaks from the pack

208SkinDoc's top picks.

The products 208SkinDoc has crowned best in their category, and brings up again and again.

★ Best sunscreen
UV Clear Broad-Spectrum SPF 46
EltaMD UV Clear Broad-Spectrum SPF 46
Brought up 15 times
I really love the EltaMD UV Clear for most skin types. They also have tinted versions to complement more skin tones.
★ Best over the counter retinoid
Adapalene Gel 0.1%
Differin Adapalene Gel 0.1%
Brought up 11 times
Differin gel, which is adapalene, used to be prescription and now it's available over the counter, which is great.
★ Best wound healing ointment
Original Healing Jelly
Vaseline Original Healing Jelly
Brought up 9 times
They're putting Vaseline on there as a skin protectant
★ Best moisturizer for oily skin
Hydro Boost Water Gel with Hyaluronic Acid
Neutrogena Hydro Boost Water Gel with Hyaluronic Acid
Brought up 9 times
I love the Neutrogena Hydro Boost. It's a great affordable option that helps keep your skin barrier healthy.
★ Best acne treatment
Accutane
Accutane Accutane
Brought up 8 times
I had a bigger one on my cheek a couple of weeks ago. I took Accutane when I started to feel that deep one coming up, and it knocked it down, perfectly.
★ Best over-the-counter antifungal shampoo
A-D Anti-Dandruff Shampoo (1% Ketoconazole)
Nizoral A-D Anti-Dandruff Shampoo (1% Ketoconazole)
Brought up 6 times
You can also do Nizoral shampoo available over the counter or by prescription. And then leave-in salicylic acid treatments will help to prevent this.

What they review most.

208SkinDoc's hot takes.

Products where their take diverges from the rest of the gurus.

208SkinDoc: Nay vs gurus 64% Yay
Traditional mouthwashes like Listerine are too harsh for the oral microbiome. Ingredients like SLS, parabens, dyes, alcohol, and peroxides are things to avoid. If I don't have access to a good, gentle product, I'd rather tell someone not to use any mouthwash at all than use something like that, because the saliva is really what's best for keeping the mouth healthy.
208SkinDoc: Nay vs gurus 74% Yay
I feel like that soap is going to dry you out leaving it on for 30 minutes
208SkinDoc: Nay vs gurus 65% Yay
This is a knockoff Noxzema moisturizer with eucalyptus oil in it, and I don't feel moisturized from it at all. It has so much fragrance to it, the added fragrance, the camphor, the phenol, you can smell all of it, and I did not enjoy this. There's propylene glycol in here too, which can be an irritant or allergen for some people, and phenol at high concentrations is what we use in the most aggressive chemical peels in dermatology. The smell reminds me of the cadaver lab from college and med school. It's no wonder I had flakes of skin all over my face like sandpaper from using this.
208SkinDoc: Nay vs gurus 72% Yay
I also have the Madagascar [Centella] sunscreen, but I'm not going to be using this one on the hike because it does not say that it's water resistant, and I'm going to be sweating a lot, so I want to stay protected as long as possible.

Every review.

All 210 products 208SkinDoc has reviewed, grouped by product type. Click a product to see the full guru consensus.

All takes Yay takes Nay takes Against the gurus
Other32 reviews
"If you want something stronger than retinol but you're not ready for a prescription, there are formulations with retinaldehyde, which is a nice middle ground. It sits one conversion step closer to the active form, so it's a little more potent, but it's still often more gentle than prescription tretinoin. There's a really good option from Avène."
Yay
83%Guru Score
"Another topical prescription I can try to help slow down oil production and get fewer of these lesions to grow is something called Winlevi. This is a topical acne medication that targets the oil glands specifically to reduce oil production so we don't feed the bacteria that cause acne. Topical Winlevi is very similar to oral spironolactone, which is commonly used in females for hormonal acne. Winlevi has to be used twice a day to be effective, and currently it's only a brand-name medication, meaning it's going to be expensive depending on your insurance plan."
~Mixed
67%Guru Score
"Over the counter there are a lot of remedies, and you can get things like Compound W. These are largely salicylic acid, and you put them on the wart daily, and it pulls water into the wart, then you use a pumice stone or scrape off the dead skin. In time these will work, but you have to be very persistent."
~Mixed
72%Guru Score
"Melanotan 2 is a synthetic peptide that absolutely produces a tan, that part is real, but it is not selective, so along with the tanning receptor it also hits receptors that cause nausea, stomach cramps, flushing of the skin, fatigue, decreased appetite, and in men spontaneous erections within one to five hours of injection. Beyond that there are documented cases of rhabdomyolysis leading to kidney failure, renal infarction, and priapism serious enough that surgery was needed to save function. There are also multiple published case reports linking Melanotan use to melanoma, and because it directly stimulates your melanocytes, the exact cells that become melanoma, this is the reason I would never recommend this peptide to anyone. It is an unregulated, non-FDA-approved product usually sold as a powder online with no quality control and no standardized dosing, so people end up having to be their own chemist calculating their own dose, and the reality is this is not worth the risk."
Nay
47%Guru Score
"You can get the Ordinary ascorbyl glucoside 12 percent, which has that same active ingredient as the $380 Augustinus Bader serum, for about $17. What matters most is the concentration of vitamin C, the pH of the formula, and whether it is packaged in a way to prevent oxidation, and you can get all of that in a really affordable formulation like this one."
Yay
72%Guru Score
"You can find this peptide in The Ordinary Matrixyl 10% Plus HA. The science here is pretty limited, mostly manufacturer claims and small studies, so there's not a lot of independent research to get excited about. This falls into the it might help and probably won't hurt category. If you're already using a product that contains it I think that's fine, but I wouldn't necessarily go out of my way to add it to my routine if I wasn't already using it."
~Mixed
77%Guru Score
"I personally prefer the texture and the results I have seen from a couple of products from SkinBetter Science, but I'm not out there claiming you have to have them to get great results on your skin. This just happens to be what I personally like to use, I find them easy, I can be consistent with them, and I can afford them. But if that's not what you want, you don't have to get them, I'm not promising they're going to work better for you."
Yay
80%Guru Score
"This is the Alpharet from Skin Better, a top tier retinoid, an over the counter version of retinoic acid comparable to tretinoin 0.025. I used to use tretinoin every night but it made my skin so dry and flaky, but when I use the Alpharet I can use it every single night and my skin loves it. It keeps the minor pimples and blackheads away, keeps my skin bright, and keeps the dead skin cells and debris off. I've even moved up to the Alpharet Advanced, which has a higher percentage of glycolic acid, and I still don't need a moisturizer after I use it, which is wild. I've never used a product from Skin Better Science that I didn't like."
Yay
78%Guru Score
"Gloves in a Bottle is a really good brand for that because it's still very lightweight. It's not thick and greasy, but it's formulated in a way that stays on the hands better through multiple rounds of hand washing. I've had a lot of people who work in food service or in hospitals and healthcare use it, and it really improves their hand dermatitis."
Yay
89%Guru Score
"You could also use Hibiclens in the shower, which is something that I actually use. After I'm working out or after I play pickleball, I will wash the armpits and the groin with Hibiclens just to prevent any bacteria there from flourishing and causing body odor."
Yay
76%Guru Score
"I had a bigger one on my cheek a couple of weeks ago. I took Accutane when I started to feel that deep one coming up, and it knocked it down, perfectly."
Yay
73%Guru Score
"The first thing I like to do is use the Avene Thermal Water. It's sterile inside the canister, and when you're really hot after a laser treatment, that feels great to spray on your skin. This has been shown, because of the high mineral content, to improve microbial diversity on the skin, so it promotes more growth of good bacteria and more diversity of bacteria, so you're less likely to deal with infections."
Yay
66%Guru Score
"I've had no trouble using AlphaRet Intensive either, which just has a little higher glycolic acid so you get a little more exfoliation. It's still very gentle on the skin."
Yay
69%Guru Score
"The Thermal Spring Water from La Roche-Posay is something I often recommend to my patients with really dry skin. Spritz it on the skin first because there's high mineral content, and it's been shown in studies to increase the microbiome diversity on the skin, giving more varied types of good bacteria, before you follow up with your moisturizer."
Yay
72%Guru Score
"What works really well to help repair skin barriers quickly, or at least soothe the skin, is something called Domeboro soaks. You put the packet in a bowl of lukewarm water, soak a washcloth in it, and lay it on the affected area, and that helps soothe the skin and calm down things like allergic reactions or really severe itchy eczema, so patients don't have to be using a steroid constantly. For the right skin condition it can be helpful, but for others it may not be."
Yay
80%Guru Score
"Traditional mouthwashes like Listerine are too harsh for the oral microbiome. Ingredients like SLS, parabens, dyes, alcohol, and peroxides are things to avoid. If I don't have access to a good, gentle product, I'd rather tell someone not to use any mouthwash at all than use something like that, because the saliva is really what's best for keeping the mouth healthy."
Nay
64%Guru Score
"I feel like that soap is going to dry you out leaving it on for 30 minutes"
Nay
74%Guru Score
"The thing I'm taking with me on the hike is the Neutrogena Ultra Sheer Stick. It's really easy to take with me and reapply, and I need to cover my head, my ears, and the back of my neck, so I'm pretty liberal with it. I do like this sunscreen because it doesn't leave me any white cast. It's a chemical sunscreen and it doesn't clump up in my facial hair."
Yay
76%Guru Score
"They're using a plasma pen. Now this is not my favorite way to remove a mole. Hopefully this person is numb. This can be done. Cosmetic results probably going to be pretty good. I just hope that they're sending that off for pathology because it's never a good idea to remove something and then throw it in the garbage."
Nay
58%Guru Score
"Polysporin is similar to Neosporin, it just doesn't contain the neomycin. But even there, there's some risk of allergy, and you just don't need to spend the extra money when just plain Vaseline actually is superior in most cases of wound healing."
Nay
61%Guru Score
"There was one that came out called Bellafill. I've never used it, but it's more of a semi-permanent filler that can last up to five years, and I'm generally not a fan of things that are going to last that long, because if you don't like the way it looks or there's a lump or a complication, you kind of have to cut it out."
Nay
55%Guru Score
"This is the Alastin Skin Nectar, their TriHex technology, a peptide product that helps promote cellular regeneration and healing. I have found that it works really well post laser procedures. Every day, morning and evening, I'm using it to help accelerate healing, and one regular size bottle will last you the entire length of time you need for laser recovery."
Yay
81%Guru Score
"The one that I've been using is from skin better science it is the men solo product this is an antioxidant I think there's 19 different anti oxidants in the solo product it is a very robust antioxidant"
Yay
84%Guru Score
"Vicks VapoRub, with its camphor and menthol, is another one that may have some antifungal properties. You can rub that on the nail at night, put socks on before bed, and it's a good idea to have breathable footwear too."
~Mixed
69%Guru Score
"For toenail fungus I'll often work with a compounding pharmacy to create a 10% terbinafine solution, terbinafine's brand name is Lamisil, and you get a bigger size for a lot less money than Jublia. This 10% terbinafine solution does tend to work pretty well, but you have to be committed to use it consistently, painting it on the nail and under the edge every single night for about a year. For the oral pill I usually use terbinafine because it carries a lower risk of interactions with other medications, and clearance rates with oral terbinafine are much higher than with the topical medications. There's some risk to the liver so we check liver enzymes, but with pulse dose therapy, taking it seven days a month instead of every day, we get clearance that's almost as good with a lot less risk to the liver."
Yay
83%Guru Score
"The one that I most commonly prescribe is Drysol, a twenty percent aluminum antiperspirant. I have patients put it on dry skin at nighttime, using it five nights in a row the first week, then tapering down over several weeks until they're using it just once a week. For many people that is an excellent plan that leads to significant improvement in their sweating. One challenge with Drysol is that it can be irritating to the skin, so it can't always be used as much as we prescribe it, and if that's the case I just have patients use it as frequently as they can without causing too much irritation."
Yay
77%Guru Score
"This is a topical that comes in a cloth you rub under the arms, and it works by stopping the transmission from the nerve to the sweat gland, so even if you have hyperhidrosis you will have significantly reduced sweating. It's a brand name medication and not many insurances cover it well, so it gets expensive, though compounding pharmacies can make versions of it as a topical solution or on presoaked pads. You do have to wash it off your hands after applying it under the arms, because if it gets on your hands and you rub your eye, your pupil will dilate and it can look alarming, like you're having a stroke. That said, it is a safe product to use."
~Mixed
73%Guru Score
"When you're putting an adhesive on the skin every day it does overtime increase your risk for a contact allergy to the adhesive. When you're buying them every day the price does add up over time and I'm not sure how much money you're saving over just doing Botox in that area. Some people don't like needles and that's okay, so you can use Frownies if you want, but it's not my choice for reducing wrinkles on my forehead."
~Mixed
62%Guru Score
"I was using a brand name prescription called Tazorac all throughout my dermatology residency. It's considered one of the strongest retinols, but over time it just became too irritating for my skin, and so now I most commonly use over the counter retinols that just aren't quite as potent."
Nay
57%Guru Score
"Epiduo Forte has two different ingredients, adapalene at 0.3 percent, which is only available by prescription at that strength, and benzoyl peroxide in a micronized form that's specifically formulated to play nice with the adapalene, so they're chemically stable together in the same bottle and you're getting two ingredients that help fight acne. Using it as a spot treatment instead of all over the face is an atypical, non-traditional use for that ingredient, but it's working well for her and I would encourage her to keep doing it."
Yay
83%Guru Score
"You guys know that my preferred device for this is the Shark Beauty FacialPro Glow, and there's going to be a link to that in the video description. I've featured it on the channel before."
Yay
Notverified
"The Shark Beauty Depuffy attachment, I think, is genuinely innovative. This device is incredibly easy to use. It only takes about 10 minutes, and the extraction results speak for themselves. This satisfies that same urge that we get while watching pimple popping videos, but it's actually good for your skin. The hydration boost from the products is real. At $399, it pays for itself after just three uses because professional facials in the dermatology office can cost $150 or more. And unlike those monthly appointments, this is available whenever your skin needs it."
Yay
Notverified
Serums32 reviews
"A solid moisturizer, Neutrogena Hydro Boost does a great job. That's part of a really good skin longevity routine."
Yay
84%Guru Score
"The Ordinary Mandelic Acid 10% plus HA is only $8, and if you're new to acids or on a budget, this is where I recommend you start. 10% mandelic acid is a sweet spot for effectiveness, effective without a lot of irritation. The formula is straightforward, no fragrance, no unnecessary filler ingredients, just the active ingredient doing its job. The Ordinary sometimes gets a bad rap because the packaging is a little boring and the texture can feel a little sticky, but I don't really care about that, I just care about whether it works, and this one does work. I've had patients use it for months and see real improvement in texture, tone, and breakouts."
Yay
83%Guru Score
"Face Reality has an 8% mandelic acid serum, which has a really nice texture, but it will set you back about $44."
Yay
84%Guru Score
"This is the Go Deep 8% Mandelic Acid Serum Concentrate, and this is the hero product. Mandelic acid is a really smart choice for an acne-focused line, and it's not an ingredient a lot of other lines have focused on. It's an alpha hydroxy acid with a larger molecule size than something like glycolic acid, so it penetrates more slowly, which makes it significantly more gentle, especially for sensitive or darker skin tones, where other AHAs can cause irritation or even post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. It exfoliates, helps with texture, fades post-acne marks, and can support collagen production to a small degree over time with consistent use. At 8% I think this is a meaningful concentration, not just a token amount, and the supporting ingredients, including licorice root extract, arginine, squalane, centella asiatica, and synactin AC, are pretty solid. It's a PM only product, which is correct since alpha hydroxy acids can increase photosensitivity, so you need SPF in the morning, and if you're new to exfoliating acids you might want to start with it two or three nights a week. It's the most expensive product in the lineup at $39."
Yay
79%Guru Score
"A second option I recommend is Paula's Choice 10% Azelaic Acid Booster. This one also includes salicylic acid, making it great for oily or acne-prone skin."
Yay
82%Guru Score
"There's a newer ingredient from La Roche-Posay called Melasyl that works on pigmentation. It doesn't work directly on the tyrosinase enzyme, but instead it takes away the amino acids that would go into making pigment. It's very well tolerated, very safe, and highly effective. Studies show it's more effective than 4% hydroquinone. You can get it in the Mela B3 serum. This is one of my favorites, and I've recommended it and given samples to many of my patients."
Yay
69%Guru Score
"There's a newer ingredient called Thiamidol, one of the most potent tyrosinase inhibitors available over the counter, and it's tolerated really well even by deeper skin tones. A 24 week randomized controlled trial showed it was significantly superior to placebo for moderate to severe melasma, and I believe it's also been compared to 4% hydroquinone and found to be superior. Thiamidol is available through Eucerin in their radiant tone collection, which has a moisturizer, a sunscreen, a serum, a cleanser, and I believe an eye cream also. If you want a full routine that really focuses on pigmentation, I do highly recommend the Eucerin radiant tone collection."
Yay
71%Guru Score
"One here that I've been liking recently is the Glow Recipe Prickly Pear Peptide Mucin. It has a very similar texture to snail mucin, but it's fully cruelty free and ethically sourced, and the texture gives you the same experience as snail mucin. That is your best alternative to snail mucin."
Yay
80%Guru Score
"The Ordinary Niacinamide 10 percent plus Zinc I think is the gold standard for affordable niacinamide serums. You can get it for about $10, the same concentration of the same ingredient as many of the more expensive brands. If you are paying more than $20 for niacinamide, I kind of think you are being scammed."
Yay
70%Guru Score
"The Ordinary Hyaluronic Acid 2 percent plus B5 costs about 10 bucks and works just as well as serums costing $100 or more. If you are spending much more than $20 on a pure hyaluronic acid serum, you are really just paying for marketing, not necessarily better ingredients."
Yay
76%Guru Score
"CeraVe Hydrating Hyaluronic Acid Serum is another great option. You are getting those same plumping, hydrating effects without paying for packaging and marketing."
Yay
66%Guru Score
"If you want a higher concentration of niacinamide, Paula's Choice 20% Niacinamide is something you can choose. It is going to be a little bit more pricey, and I am not sure that 20 percent is going to do a whole lot more for your skin than 10 percent."
~Mixed
67%Guru Score
"If you want to try copper peptides, I recommend starting with The Ordinary Multi-Peptide Plus Copper Peptides 1%. It's straightforward and it's affordable. Copper peptides are probably the most legitimate peptide in the skincare industry right now, since copper is essential for making healthy collagen and elastin, but they're not going to turn back the clock twenty years, so don't expect overnight miracles. They can also be finicky, so I wouldn't layer them with a strong chemical peel acid like an AHA or BHA, certain vitamin C's, or other aggressive exfoliants."
Yay
89%Guru Score
"You will find this peptide in the hugely popular SkinMedica TNS serum, which is kind of an expensive product, so you're paying for a premium, but it's a cult favorite and it's widely loved by the people who use it frequently. This is really for skincare enthusiasts who want to try cutting edge ingredients and don't mind paying for that, even if the science isn't quite there yet. I do think most people would be better served by more proven ingredients, and if you're just getting started with skincare, this isn't the place you need to start."
~Mixed
79%Guru Score
"If you have really dry skin or live in a dry climate, the Biossance squalane oil feels great on the skin. Squalane is a natural lipid that's incorporated into your moisture barrier."
Yay
73%Guru Score
"CeraVe also, with ascorbyl glucoside, has a great vitamin C. This is one of the entry-level ones that I would recommend."
Yay
72%Guru Score
"This is the top tier, high price range option, the SkinBetter Science Alto Advanced Defense and Repair Serum. It has vitamin C, but it also has a complex of 20 different antioxidants in it, so you're getting a whole range of additional ingredients to help fight free radicals. To be frank with you, this is the one that I use every single day. It comes in an airless pump and you get about 150 days of use out of it, so even though it comes in at like 190 or 210 dollars, you do get a long time of use out of that."
Yay
86%Guru Score
"The Paula's Choice C15 Super Booster is 15% ascorbic acid in a stabilized formula. It's definitely going to be more expensive than the previous options we've talked about, but it's a very good vitamin C, and they've done some great demonstrations through social media showing its antioxidant power."
Yay
84%Guru Score
"I just tried the Amino Rain product from Drunk Elephant, with hyaluronic acid in it, and it just really does kind of give you that glass skin appearance."
Yay
70%Guru Score
"Over the counter you can purchase azelaic acid, and The Ordinary has a 10% azelaic acid serum that's very good. Azelaic acid has anti-inflammatory properties and helps calm down the inflammation that leads to the development of extra blood vessels in rosacea."
Yay
75%Guru Score
"This has a 15% L-ascorbic acid, the same percentage as CE Ferulic, plus micropeptides designed to penetrate deeper and signal the fibroblasts, and 2% PHA, which is a gentle exfoliant that also helps bind water into the skin. The formula is fragrance-free and non-comedogenic. It feels really nice on the skin, it's not heavy, not greasy, not too watery but not too oily either, it's not sticky, and it did not sting at all when I put it on. It layered well under my sunscreen and I think it would work well under makeup too. It's a small bottle so you'll run out faster if you use it on your arms and legs, but it's twenty dollars on Amazon and Walmart, compared to a similar stack of ingredients in CE Ferulic that retails at a hundred eighty five dollars, so I think this is a very worthy contender. I'm impressed with the ingredients and I think this is a very compelling product for the skincare routine of anybody who's interested in preventing the signs of aging and preventing collagen loss."
Yay
69%Guru Score
"I also have the Madagascar [Centella] sunscreen, but I'm not going to be using this one on the hike because it does not say that it's water resistant, and I'm going to be sweating a lot, so I want to stay protected as long as possible."
Nay
72%Guru Score
"Abreva has been shown to shorten the duration of the outbreak, which usually lasts two to three weeks until it's completely resolved. It can shorten that duration if you catch it early, but if you wait later, once it's blistering and it's been established for three or four days, Abreva may not do too much for you."
~Mixed
58%Guru Score
"Remedy for Dark Spots has a treasure trove of ingredients all designed to help fight pigmentation in the skin, so it doesn't just have one single ingredient to interrupt the melanin synthesis pathway, it has several approaches. It's been a very well received product on social media from people posting their before and afters. I've had the chance to use this and recommend it to patients, and it is pretty well liked. It has a really nice cosmetic feel to it, and most importantly it does a good job of reducing unwanted pigmentation. It starts with an encapsulated retinol, which makes it a little more gentle on the skin, along with mandelic acid for gentle exfoliation, one percent kojic acid, glutathione, three percent tranexamic acid, silymarin, and I do like the addition of five percent niacinamide. It's pretty reasonably priced for all the ingredients you get, somewhere around thirty eight dollars."
Yay
85%Guru Score
"The Vichy LiftActiv Vitamin C is a really great option that's a little bit higher price point but has a nice elegant feel to it. This is one that I enjoy using, and it's travel friendly, so I often keep it in my travel bag when I'm taking trips."
Yay
76%Guru Score
"We're going to finish off this routine with a moisturizer, the SkinBetter Science Trio Rebalancing Moisture Treatment. This has a nice complement of lipids in there to complement your skin's natural lipids, to help repair and restore that moisture barrier. This is a really rich, luxe feeling cream that's going to be a great user experience, but it is going to be at a much more premium price point than many of the products that we've talked about."
Yay
75%Guru Score
"I have used a product from Topology that has Matrixyl in it, which is designed to stimulate collagen production in the skin. I find that the Topology product actually feels really great on the skin, it's a lightweight serum, and I have recommended it to patients who maybe can't tolerate a retinol or a prescription strength retinoid but want something to help boost their collagen production."
Yay
84%Guru Score
"SkinCeuticals C E Ferulic is another great option, but it's definitely at a higher price point."
Yay
77%Guru Score
"Remedy for Pore Size has retinol, about zero point one percent, to help improve cell turnover, salicylic acid to help dissolve the oil that accumulates in the pores, niacinamide and green tea to help regulate oil production, and perlite, which is a mattifying agent that helps absorb oil and make the skin look less shiny. It spreads easily, there's clearly no fragrance and no irritation to the skin. My initial impressions of this product are really great. It's thirty two dollars, so it's a little less expensive than Remedy for Dark Spots and really not out of reach for most people if you're going to get longevity out of the product."
Yay
89%Guru Score
"This is the Vinoperfect from Caudalie, a resveratrol that comes from the grape peel. This is very good to help at the end of the day kind of neutralize any free radicals that you were exposed to."
Yay
72%Guru Score
"This is the phytocorrective essence mist. This is great before you use a moisturizer, morning or evening, or even throughout the day, you can keep it with you."
Yay
70%Guru Score
"This is a two-in-one formula, part serum, part emulsion, and one drop supposedly hits dark circles, puffiness, and wrinkles all at once. I've personally been using it for the past couple of weeks and I already feel like my under eye area looks brighter and smoother. It has niacinamide for brightening and for brown pigment, organic horse chestnut escin for blue and purple dark circles and for microcirculation, phyto caffeine to cut down on fluid retention and puffiness, and organic marjoram and organic turmeric to target both lifestyle-driven and chronological aging. As a dermatologist I'm always a little skeptical when a product claims to do everything, because usually that's a red flag, but this is one of the rare exceptions where I've actually looked at the science and thought, okay, this checks out, they've got the right ingredients, and so far my user experience backs it up. I only talk about stuff that I genuinely recommend to my own patients and to my mother."
Yay
72%Guru Score
Sunscreen32 reviews
"I got a link for it through the Air Skin Store where you can buy my favorite Ulta MD sunscreen at a discount, not just the first time you buy it, but every time you go back to repurchase it."
Yay
82%Guru Score
"This is the Then I Met You Essence Light Sunscreen. I've used this one on my face several times. It starts out white, but it blends in very nicely."
Yay
68%Guru Score
"This is the Madagascar Centella Probio Cica Glow Sun Ampoule SPF 50 plus PA 4 plus. It has a very nice texture and blends in even faster than the Then I Met You sunscreen."
Yay
85%Guru Score
"One of my go-tos is EltaMD UV Daily because it's lightweight. It doesn't leave a sticky feeling and there's no white cast. It's also very hydrating to the skin."
Yay
81%Guru Score
"The SPF contains thiamidol and it blends in really nicely with the skin, leaving a sheer finish. For a moment I was worried it was going to cake up in my beard, but as I kept rubbing it in I didn't have any issues with it leaving a white cast on my skin or that white gunk in my beard that some sunscreens leave."
Yay
84%Guru Score
"The one that I've been using recently and really liking that I'll leave for your recommendation is BYOMA. BYOMA is an inexpensive line of skin care. This is an SPF 30 broad spectrum UVA, UVB, and it's an ultra light face fluid. It's pretty lightweight. That is definitely enough sunscreen."
Yay
73%Guru Score
"The EltaMD UV Skin Recovery sunscreen is my favorite one to recommend for patients who have rosacea because it has many ingredients to help repair the skin barrier. It also comes with a little bit of a green tint, not enough to look strange, but enough to help mask redness and give you a more even skin tone."
Yay
92%Guru Score
"Neutrogena has a Hydro Boost sunscreen that's super lightweight. Very, very nice, I like it."
Yay
81%Guru Score
"I had never tried a stick sunscreen until recently, and I really like it. I used the EltaMD UV Stick. I was wearing sandals that can get wet, and it was really nice, I could rub it onto my feet real quick and it worked around the sandals. It was really convenient, and I could do areas like the tops of my ears easily."
Yay
79%Guru Score
"This is a chemical sunscreen, so it's not going to leave a white cast. I appreciate that it doesn't gunk up in the facial hair, and it doesn't have that strong sunscreen smell either."
Yay
70%Guru Score
"This is a pure zinc sunscreen, water rated for 40 minutes of water resistance. There's a little bit of stuff in the beard, not too bad, and a little bit of white sheen on the skin. I don't want to rub that completely away because then you're rubbing away some of the effectiveness of the sunscreen, so we're going to be a little bit white today. Would I wear it in clinic? Not so sure. Would I wear it to a social function? Not so sure. But on vacation with my kids, absolutely. I appreciate the water resistance."
~Mixed
74%Guru Score
"This is the Isdin Fusion Water Magic SPF 40 broad spectrum daily use sunscreen. This is a good hydrating sunscreen and it's very much like a fluid in its consistency. I have worn it before and it's done a good job protecting me. This is a chemical sunscreen, no white cast, not gunking up in the beard at all."
Yay
74%Guru Score
"This is Sun Bum, the body sunscreen I usually pick up once we get to the vacation location. If you haven't used it before, they are great sunscreens. They do have fragrance to them, so if that's irritating to you, you need to find an option that doesn't have fragrance. But this is a premium moisturizing sunscreen, SPF 70, which is great, and it's water resistant for 80 minutes. This one has been going on me and my kids, and I've reapplied it on my face as well when we've been out at the beach for several hours."
Yay
70%Guru Score
"For reapplying we just bought a big thing of Hawaiian Tropic. It does have fragrance, but it's SPF 50, water resistant for 80 minutes, keeping me, my kids, my whole family from getting burned out here."
~Mixed
72%Guru Score
"If I'm going to be just out playing with my kids or something, it's usually going to be La Roche-Posay Anthelios, it's water resistant. I use it as well and I like it a lot."
Yay
77%Guru Score
"This morning I'm wearing the Neutrogena Ultra Sheer Face Serum SPF 60. It says it's water resistant for eighty minutes, and I'm going to be sweating on a three and a half hour hike up a volcano, so I want to make sure I'm staying protected as long as possible. It's also very handy, I can take it with me."
Yay
76%Guru Score
"This is the Tower 28 SPF 30 Save Our Skin. It's a 12.5% zinc oxide sunscreen. Tower 28 makes a lot of great products, and their sunscreens are also very nice. This one is a tinted sunscreen that's going to mask any appearance of a white cast. If you like a little bit of tint to your sunscreen, it will blend well under makeup. Looks great on the skin. It's a mineral only sunscreen."
Yay
64%Guru Score
"This is the daily UV defense sunscreen from Innisfree. This one is a no white cast, glowy finish, and it's a chemical sunscreen with active ingredients including enzacamene, homosalate, and octisalate. Innisfree makes some really good sunscreens. They feel very good on the skin, very smooth, and just like the Ranovat, this one is available at Sephora as well."
Yay
66%Guru Score
"When I first started putting this on it looked very white and made me worried they had overstated their claims, but as I kept rubbing it in it did blend in nicely and left a pretty sheer finish. It did cake up a little in my beard, which would give me pause about using it as my daily sunscreen when I'm seeing patients, and they don't make any claims that it's water resistant, so I probably wouldn't wear it if I were going to be in the water or sweating a lot. But it's about as good as you can get for a mineral sunscreen, it's gentle on the skin, dries quickly, isn't sticky or greasy, and I think it would work well under makeup. I would recommend this product, I'd put it on my kids in the summer, though it's probably not going to be my everyday sunscreen."
Yay
74%Guru Score
"UV Sport, I love that one for when I'm out mountain biking or playing pickleball outside. It doesn't get in my eyes, it doesn't sweat off, and it doesn't leave white streaks on my face."
Yay
86%Guru Score
"I'm going to be using UV Restore from EltaMD today because this is going to be a little bit more cosmetically elegant, but it's still a very moisturizing, very hydrating sunscreen. It's a physical sunscreen with zinc oxide, but it has natural squalane in it, so it is going to hydrate very well."
Yay
78%Guru Score
"I love Cicaplast Balm B5 as a healing balm, as a healing cream, I give this to a lot of my patients who have rosacea or a compromised skin barrier. This particular one is an SPF 50 sunscreen version, so it's going to help keep my skin hydrated while protecting it. It's a very thick sunscreen though, not the kind I would typically use as a daily sunscreen, it's very thick and white and feels almost like a diaper rash ointment, but it's excellent when you're healing."
Yay
82%Guru Score
"They sent me the Beauty of Joseon Relief Sun a while back and I have loved using it. It's a very lightweight Korean sunscreen that does not sit heavy on the skin, and I use it all the time, even all the way up over my head. It provides SPF 50 level protection without leaving a heavy feeling on the skin. This is a great option for those with acne prone skin who tend to produce a lot of oil, because it's not going to add another layer on top that feels really heavy."
Yay
92%Guru Score
"The Isntree Hyaluronic Acid Watery Sun Gel is another Korean sunscreen, and I find that Korean sunscreens are a lot better than a lot of the ones we have available in the US. They have better filters and better UVA protection. This is a really great option for your skin. It's the one I took to Hawaii last year because it was really hot and humid and I wanted a lightweight sunscreen that would protect my skin, and this one did an excellent job."
Yay
84%Guru Score
"La Roche-Posay also created the MelaB3 UV sunscreen. It's a chemical sunscreen and it's not tinted. My personal preference is that if you have significant melasma I like my patients to use a tinted sunscreen, but this one feels really nice on the skin, it's very lightweight, and it spreads very easily. It also contains MelaB3, so you're getting an extra dose of that compound to help target excess pigmentation. It's an SPF 30 sunscreen and it also contains five percent niacinamide."
Yay
78%Guru Score
"If you need a moisturizer for the daytime, or a moisturizer and sunscreen, I strongly recommend Cicapair from Dr. Jart. It's a moisturizer, or a moisturizer and sunscreen, that's specifically made for individuals with redness on the skin because it has a little bit of color correction in it. If you have excess redness in the skin, getting something with a little bit of a green tint helps to neutralize the appearance of that redness. Cicapair is a great option for individuals with rosacea, it helps to correct the redness and limit the inflammation from continuing and the problem from getting worse."
Yay
84%Guru Score
"The most popular sunscreen I sell in my clinic is EltaMD, the UV Clear tinted version, and it's a fantastic, fairly universal tint."
Yay
85%Guru Score
"I love the Unseen Sunscreen from Supergoop. It feels good on my face, it's not heavy, I'm not overpowered by fragrance, it doesn't leave me shiny, and it provides 40 minutes of water resistance. But at 38 dollars for 50 milliliters it's the most expensive sunscreen by the ounce of all four I tested, and because of that I think the Trader Joe's dupe beats it out. I do love Supergoop, but it's probably my third favorite of the four."
~Mixed
69%Guru Score
"Black Girl Sunscreen is SPF 45, fragrance free, and rated water resistant for 80 minutes, so it's a step up in protection from the other clear sunscreens I tested. I like the formulation, that it's a little higher SPF, and that it's better rated for water resistance. But it feels a little more oily and thicker, it doesn't rub in quite as well, and I just didn't enjoy the texture of it as much as the others, though that's an individual personal preference. I wouldn't make this my primary sunscreen if I were jumping in a pool, since I feel like it can rub off and I don't know that you get the same longevity out of it."
~Mixed
87%Guru Score
"This is the Bliss Block Star sunscreen, a tinted sunscreen. If you're prone to melasma you want not just a sunscreen but a mineral sunscreen that's tinted, because it helps block the blue light and the infrared, the heat you feel, and those things can flare melasma. So this is going to be great to protect you against melasma, especially if you're prone to it."
Yay
73%Guru Score
"This is the Eucerin sensitive mineral face sunscreen. This is a great sunscreen if you're active, if you're going outside, you're golfing, you're running, exercising."
Yay
86%Guru Score
"I'm using this one myself, the Isdin Eryfotona Actinica. It's super popular, and it's not an inexpensive sunscreen, but it's one hundred percent mineral."
Yay
81%Guru Score
Moisturizers31 reviews
"The new Epiduo that's available over the counter would be great for this kind of skin. It used to be prescription, and it's got adapalene and benzoyl peroxide in it. Now it's OTC without a prescription."
Yay
78%Guru Score
"Pimecrolimus Cream, the brand name here is Elidel, is a nonsteroidal prescription that works by calming the immune response in the skin. It's a topical calcineurin inhibitor, so it doesn't have any of the steroid side effects. It's been around for over twenty years, it has a solid track record of safety, and it does work in calming the inflammation of seborrheic dermatitis on the face. For long term management, a non-steroid option like Elidel is, in my opinion, a way better option for your face than steroids."
Yay
83%Guru Score
"The product I'd recommend here is The Ordinary Natural Moisturizing Factors plus Beta Glucan, and it retails for only $6.50. It's really worth trying."
Yay
81%Guru Score
"I still stand behind the product I recommended in my last video on ectoin, and that's the Prequel Reactive Skin Solutions 5% Ectoin Cream."
Yay
83%Guru Score
"For the fourth and final step of the routine we have the barrier boosting moisturizer, which retails at $36 and seals everything in. The shea butter in this formula is at a low concentration and balanced with lighter emollients in a delivery system designed for proper absorption, and it was clinically tested and confirmed to be non-comedogenic, so what shea butter actually brings is barrier support, since it's rich in fatty acids that help repair and nourish the skin barrier. It's got a quad ceramide complex, hyaluronic acid, glycerin, ectoin, lactobacillus ferment for microbiome support, and willow bark for a very gentle ongoing BHA effect. Overall, this is a well-built moisturizer, you can use it morning and night, and it's lightweight enough that it won't feel heavy underneath SPF in the morning."
Yay
67%Guru Score
"We've also recently had approved by the FDA things like obsura, zarieve and vitam that can be helpful here."
Yay
84%Guru Score
"One cream I've recommended to my patients, the before and afters look great, my patients have been happy with, is the Cetaphil hydrating and firming cream. It works beautifully here and it's not going to break the bank at under $20."
Yay
90%Guru Score
"CeraVe Moisturizing Cream costs about $16 and is probably more effective than a $200 luxury ceramide cream. CeraVe was actually developed with dermatologists and contains the same types of ceramides that luxury brands charge premium prices for, and it basically has all the ceramides your skin needs."
Yay
87%Guru Score
"CeraVe PM Facial Moisturizing Lotion contains niacinamide plus ceramides and hyaluronic acid for around $15 to $20. So you get multiple ingredients in one formula, and really not a bad price."
Yay
89%Guru Score
"The retinoid I recommend for nighttime use is the Avène RetrinAL 0.1% Intensive Cream. It contains retinaldehyde, which is a gentle form of retinol that's less likely to cause irritation than most prescription retinols. This is the one product that's going to give you the most dramatic long term improvement in your skin. The Avène retinol is gentle enough for sensitive skin, but still very effective."
Yay
84%Guru Score
"The moisturizer I recommend and use frequently is the Cetaphil Moisturizing Lotion. It's a lightweight but hydrating formula that works for most skin types and won't clog your pores. Even if you have oily skin, you still need to moisturize."
Yay
84%Guru Score
"This is a very popular product. It hydrates very well. [...] Definitely has a little bit thicker texture to it, but even with that thicker texture, I'm not seeing a lot of it gunk up in the beard. I do like this product."
Yay
90%Guru Score
"Then you layer on top of that the Cicalfate+. This is a really thick moisturizing cream. It is fragrance-free. It is about as gentle as you can get, with the exception of plain Vaseline. It almost feels like Desitin, like diaper rash ointment, to me, but it is a miracle worker for sensitive skin."
Yay
90%Guru Score
"If you're dealing with sensitive skin and rosacea, you want an excellent moisturizer, and La Roche-Posay Cicaplast Balm B5 is one of my favorites. It's a thick moisturizer that's easier to use at night than in the daytime, but you want a generous amount on the skin to really help repair the skin barrier. I use it on my patients after laser procedures to repair their skin barrier, and I've also seen it work really well on patients who have rosacea."
Yay
91%Guru Score
"If you're dealing with sensitive skin and rosacea, you want an excellent moisturizer, and Vanicream is one of my favorites. It's a thick moisturizer that's easier to use at night than in the daytime, but you want a generous amount on the skin to really help repair the skin barrier. I use it on my patients after laser procedures to repair their skin barrier, and I've also seen it work really well on patients who have rosacea."
Yay
88%Guru Score
"This is a knockoff Noxzema moisturizer with eucalyptus oil in it, and I don't feel moisturized from it at all. It has so much fragrance to it, the added fragrance, the camphor, the phenol, you can smell all of it, and I did not enjoy this. There's propylene glycol in here too, which can be an irritant or allergen for some people, and phenol at high concentrations is what we use in the most aggressive chemical peels in dermatology. The smell reminds me of the cadaver lab from college and med school. It's no wonder I had flakes of skin all over my face like sandpaper from using this."
Nay
65%Guru Score
"I'm not a big fan of Benadryl cream. I don't think it does a lot, but some people like it."
Nay
51%Guru Score
"You can use a silicone scar gel. I've got one on my website. And gentle massage. Those things are going to help with time. Time is your best friend with scars to help make these things look better."
Yay
88%Guru Score
"The third product is a lightweight lotion, the tolerance control lotion. It's a lot more lightweight, kind of your final layer, that you put on to really moisturize the hands after the thermal spring water and the XeraCalm. Using it together with the overnight glove routine is really going to help repair the skin barrier because of the ingredients Avène comes with."
Yay
84%Guru Score
"The moisturizer option is the First Aid Beauty Ultra Repair Cream. It has a nice rich texture to it, and it's great for helping to repair the skin barrier. It is a little bit more expensive than the Neutrogena Hydro Boost we talked about, but it has a really elegant feel to it, a little bit more premium, a little bit elevated experience, and I think that you'll really like it, still without really breaking the bank."
Yay
75%Guru Score
"There's also the La Roche-Posay Toleriane Double Repair Matte Moisturizer. I'm a big fan of their products, and this one has silica and perlite in it, which help absorb some of that excess oil so you're not left looking shiny. It's a really good moisturizer that you can use day or night, and it's not going to sit heavy on the skin. It's going to leave your skin feeling really, really nice."
Yay
87%Guru Score
"I really, really like the one from Skinfix, their Triple Lipid Barrier Plus moisturizer. It's kind of in between a mass market product on price and something like SkinCeuticals, and it works really well."
Yay
95%Guru Score
"I've been loving a new moisturizer from Prequel, the Advanced Relief Moisturizing Milk. It's a pretty lightweight moisturizer with shea butter, glycerin, niacinamide, and ten percent urea to really help draw water into the top layers of the skin. I've been loving it for both my face and my body. It's a fantastic moisturizer to use especially when you step out of the shower to help lock in that hydration, and it's certainly worth a try if you don't have a body moisturizer that's working really well for you."
Yay
86%Guru Score
"Boma is also a good brand and inexpensive."
Yay
77%Guru Score
"We picked the Biossance squalane plus vitamin C rose moisturizer. Biossance makes a lot of great products, they use squalane in all of their products which is an oil our skin really needs, and they derive theirs from sugarcane rather than sharks so it's ethically sourced and sustainable, and it has some vitamin C in there for a bit of an antioxidant. It's going to be just a nice lightweight moisturizer to use in the morning, and you can also repeat it in the evening. This is probably the more expensive product we have in this routine and it's not necessary for everybody, you could certainly go with a less expensive moisturizer."
Yay
83%Guru Score
"The Inkey List Bakuchiol Moisturizer is a retinol alternative and it works really well. The Inkey List always comes in at a great price point, so if you don't want to spend a ton of money, it really gives you a good option to start incorporating bakuchiol into your skincare routine."
Yay
76%Guru Score
"The CeraVe Daily Facial Moisturizing Lotion is a long time favorite in the CeraVe family and one of their original products. It contains three essential ceramides that help strengthen and fortify your moisture barrier, and it's an oil free moisturizer that contains hyaluronic acid, so when you put it on you immediately feel more hydrated. CeraVe uses MVE technology for a delayed release of their patented ingredients so you get long lasting hydration that doesn't go away immediately. It's safe to use on both the face and body, it's non-comedogenic so it won't plug your pores, and it's developed in collaboration with dermatologists. I personally love the daily moisturizing lotion, I've used it for a long time, and I use it on my kids on both face and body. If you have dry skin or even normal skin, this is going to work really well for you."
Yay
83%Guru Score
"For sensitive skin I use the Eucerin Skin Balance Facial Day Cream. This is a moisturizer I was recently turned on to and I've really liked it. It has what they call a tri-balance complex of ingredients to help soothe the skin, fortify it, and repair your moisture barrier. Just as important as what they put in it is what is not in there, and this moisturizer is free of a number of things that could lead to irritation if you're really sensitive, including preservatives, parabens, alcohol, dyes, and other emulsifiers. So you're getting a very basic but well formulated moisturizer that will help repair and hydrate very sensitive skin. Some of the hydrating ingredients it does have include glycerin and shea butter, both of which I'm a big fan of."
Yay
86%Guru Score
"This is the skin barrier cream from Dr. Jart. It's a very rich moisturizer."
Yay
65%Guru Score
"This is the Water Bank Blue Hyaluronic Acid Cream Moisturizer. It's a complement to the hyaluronic acid serum, using the same filtration process and fermentation with algae and hyaluronic acid, but in a thicker base, so it does impart better hydration to the skin for longer. I do like this moisturizing routine, first with the hyaluronic acid serum, now with the water cream, you're going to get a little bit longer effect from that."
Yay
66%Guru Score
"If you're going to add one proven active on top of your basics, I'd recommend a retinoid, and your late twenties or early thirties is a great time to start thinking about it. AlphaRet from SkinBetter Science gives you prescription retinoid level results in my opinion, with a gentler experience, and that's where I'd put my money. I'd be using something like that before I'd put anything on my skin with longevity on the label."
Yay
82%Guru Score
Cleansers29 reviews
"It's no surprise that I like the CeraVe Hydrating Cream to Foam Cleanser. It does a great job of cleansing without being too aggressive on your skin."
Yay
78%Guru Score
"It's no surprise that I like the RoC Barrier Renew Cleanser. It does a great job of cleansing without being too aggressive on your skin."
Yay
82%Guru Score
"This is a cleansing balm, and the delivery system here is genuinely clever. You twist the top, it carves off just the right amount of product, and you apply it directly to dry skin so the oils can bind to the oils on your face, whether that's sunscreen or makeup, and pull all of it off. The key ingredients are squalane, green tea extract, centella asiatica, vitamin E, and a sebum dissolving oil complex with seabuckthorn, grapeseed, and meadowfoam seed oils. There's no synthetic fragrance, it's non-comedogenic, and it's clinically tested. My one note is that if you have acne-prone skin, make sure you're rinsing this thoroughly, because cleansing balms can leave a little residue if you rush the rinse. It's priced at $29."
Yay
82%Guru Score
"This is the Pore Power Exfoliating LHA plus BHA Gel Cleanser, and this is where some of the actives start to come in. LHA is a derivative of salicylic acid, and it's oil soluble, so it gets into the pore lining and can help break up the blockage at the source, which matters because pore blockage is literally one step in how acne forms. Willow bark adds a natural BHA component, and ginger root extract and glycerin keep it from being too stripping. The instruction to massage it for 30 to 60 seconds is actually important, not just filler copy. The brand recommends using this AM and PM, but if you're already using the mandelic acid serum at night you're starting to stack exfoliation up multiple times a day, so if your skin is on the more sensitive side I would start with this cleanser just once a day and see how it responds before going twice a day. That's not a knock on the product, it's just smart skin care practice. It's priced at $28."
Yay
81%Guru Score
"I love the CeraVe hydrating cleanser because clean skin is what you want, not damaged skin."
Yay
85%Guru Score
"If you want chemical exfoliation, I recommend starting off with over the counter products containing salicylic acid or glycolic acid in low concentrations, like the CeraVe SA Cleanser. These are formulated for at home use, the pH is appropriate, and the concentration is such that it won't send you to the ER."
Yay
75%Guru Score
"The cleanser I recommend is the Cetaphil Daily Facial Cleanser. It's a soap free, non-comedogenic cleanser, so it's not going to plug up your pores and cause acne. It will remove dirt, oil, and makeup without stripping your skin or causing irritation."
Yay
79%Guru Score
"I've used the Eucerin Radiant Tone cleansing gel for a couple of weeks now and I haven't experienced any dryness, either long term or immediately after using it. It lathers really well and does not leave my skin feeling dry, tight, or squeaky clean, just a nice refreshing clean while still feeling hydrated."
Yay
84%Guru Score
"The La Roche-Posay purifying foaming cleanser is going to be better for somebody with a little more oily skin, maybe a little bit of acne. This foaming cleanser is going to remove excess oil from the skin, and it's still very gentle. I've used that face wash and liked it."
Yay
92%Guru Score
"I like to use a benzoyl peroxide cleanser, benzoyl peroxide is great. CeraVe makes a good one, it's a 10 percent. I don't like 10 percent benzoyl peroxide on the face, it's pretty drying, but people tolerate it really well on the back. It's like their acne foaming cream cleanser, a 10 percent benzoyl peroxide. They do make a 4 percent version that I like better on the face."
~Mixed
76%Guru Score
"It's hard to bring a good facial cleanser on vacation because they come in bigger bottles and are hard to get through if you're not checking a bag, so when I travel I always bring with me the Olay cleansing melts. They feel like a little piece of fabric, but when you get them wet they immediately dissolve and melt in your hand."
Yay
82%Guru Score
"I have done double cleansing. There's a brand called Pharmacy and they have a cleansing balm that's very nice, though it does have fragrance."
Yay
82%Guru Score
"If you're really in a pinch, a makeup removing wipe is good enough before you crash and go to bed for the evening. Neutrogena makes some great makeup removing wipes."
Yay
61%Guru Score
"I used a Bioderma oil cleanser which is very gentle, fragrance free on the skin, and it helped to remove all the Dr. Rogers restore and the sunscreen that I had on there previously."
Yay
65%Guru Score
"I really like the CeraVe Acne Control Cleanser. It's a 2% salicylic acid wash, you rub it on and leave it on for 30 to 60 seconds before you rinse it off."
Yay
84%Guru Score
"Cetaphil has a great salicylic acid cleanser."
Yay
80%Guru Score
"Starting off with the cleanser, we have the SkinBetter Science Cleansing Gel. This clocks in around 50 dollars, but it's an 8 ounce size, so you get quite a bit of product, it's going to last you a long time. On an ounce by ounce basis this gentle cleanser is not terribly more expensive than some of the others that we've talked about, but you are going to shell out more upfront for it."
Yay
80%Guru Score
"A foaming cleanser does a better job removing excess oil from the skin, but if you have very dry skin, this one may be a little too much for you, even though it has ceramides and hyaluronic acid. If you tend to be oily and you produce a lot of oil as the day goes on and want to get that off after a workout or at the end of the day, the foaming cleanser is going to be the best option for you."
Yay
80%Guru Score
"This one is strictly made for dry to very dry skin. It's going to be really gentle, it's not going to remove excess oil from the skin, it's going to help to hydrate like all CeraVe products. It has essential ceramides in it to help replenish and strengthen the skin barrier. It can also be used as the first step of a double cleanse."
Yay
80%Guru Score
"This wash does not have salicylic acid in it like the others, so it's less targeted specifically to treating acne, but it does a really good job removing excess oil. The claim is that it removes 99% of excess oil without overdrying or stripping the skin. It has hydrating ingredients in it so you're not left feeling dry and tight, and it has zinc, which can also play a role in regulating oil production."
Yay
81%Guru Score
"I like a gentle cleanser like a basic Cetaphil cleanser. It works really well and it's not going to overdry the skin."
Yay
80%Guru Score
"I got the Bubble gel cleanser, the gel cleanser is going to be a little better for oily skin."
Yay
70%Guru Score
"I love to recommend mass market brands for cleansing because they work really well and they're not terribly expensive. I really like the Hydro Boost line from Neutrogena, the gentle cleanser."
Yay
79%Guru Score
"This is the Lipikar AP Plus Wash from La Roche-Posay, it's a very gentle cleanser. It's going to foam up just a little bit and feel like a nice lather on the skin, but it's not going to remove a lot of extra oil from the skin and it's not going to leave you feeling tight and dry. So this is a great option for a pre-teen."
Yay
89%Guru Score
"We've got a Bioré pore strip on a mostly willing participant here but pay attention as it comes off because these are not just normal sebaceous filaments"
~Mixed
60%Guru Score
"PanOxyl is another brand that's hugely popular. PanOxyl makes a great wash that I often recommend to my patients as well."
Yay
84%Guru Score
"Neutrogena also makes some good salicylic acid washes. These are the ones in the orange bottle, and you can find them at most drug stores."
Yay
80%Guru Score
"I like the products from Laneige. They do tend to be a little bit more on the expensive side, but this is a good gentle cleanser, not an exfoliating cleanser, and if you have a history of sensitive skin, this is a really good option."
Yay
82%Guru Score
"This is a really nice cleanser. It smells amazing. I use this on my face and on my scalp."
Yay
74%Guru Score
Haircare12 reviews
"First up is Nizoral shampoo, which contains ketoconazole, a common antifungal agent. This is my go-to recommendation over-the-counter. It's a true antifungal and directly targets the malassezia. You can get the one percent version over the counter at pretty much any pharmacy or off Amazon, and if your case is more stubborn there's a two percent ketoconazole version available by prescription."
Yay
86%Guru Score
"The CeraVe hydrating anti-dandruff shampoo and conditioner contains pyrithione zinc, and it's my favorite pyrithione zinc option. This one is really gentle and it's a really solid maintenance option, and it can also be great during a flare, using it two to three times a week, applying it, scrubbing it into the affected area, and waiting five minutes before you rinse it out. I'm such a big fan of the CeraVe, I actually appeared in a commercial with them."
Yay
85%Guru Score
"One of the most common over-the-counter treatments you can get is Rogaine, or minoxidil, the generic. It comes in a 2%, marketed toward women, and a 5%, marketed toward men. The 5% is absolutely going to work better, and I generally recommend that for my female patients as long as we've covered all the risks and benefits, because at those higher percentages there might be a little more risk of irritation. I generally find that they charge more for the 2%, and it definitely doesn't work as well as the 5%. So if you are a candidate for Rogaine, I would just start with the 5%."
Yay
86%Guru Score
"Hair, skin, and nails vitamins like Nutrafol are some of the most common supplements marketed to you on Facebook and Instagram. I think there's a role for these to make sure your body isn't deficient in any of the essential vitamins or minerals that are important for growing hair. However, they tend to be quite expensive."
~Mixed
63%Guru Score
"Hair, skin, and nails vitamins like Viviscal are some of the most common supplements marketed to you on Facebook and Instagram. I think there's a role for these to make sure your body isn't deficient in any of the essential vitamins or minerals that are important for growing hair. However, they tend to be quite expensive."
~Mixed
65%Guru Score
"Buying a generic brand like the Kirkland brand at Costco is going to give you the same result as the brand name minoxidil."
Yay
86%Guru Score
"Other types of selenium sulfide shampoo, like Selsun Blue, can sometimes be beneficial as well for an itchy, irritated scalp from dandruff."
Yay
73%Guru Score
"If your scalp is itchy and irritated from the dandruff, the Vichy selenium sulfide shampoos can sometimes be beneficial as well."
Yay
87%Guru Score
"Pyrithione zinc is the main ingredient in Head and Shoulders. They've been on the market a long time and they're probably the biggest anti-dandruff shampoo out there. In clinical studies Procter and Gamble showed us when I visited their headquarters, pyrithione zinc was slightly more effective than even ketoconazole shampoo."
Yay
74%Guru Score
"I use T/Gel personally. I know it does not smell good, it smells like tar, it's a tar based shampoo and it stinks the whole bathroom, your wife's going to yell at you. But it does help me, it helps my itch, especially any inflammation going on in the scalp. That tar based shampoo is very anti-inflammatory on the skin and really does a great job of breaking up scale. It's becoming harder to find unfortunately, but it's a good option."
Yay
84%Guru Score
"T/Sal is also made by Neutrogena. It doesn't have the tar in it, but it's more of a salicylic acid base to really help break up scale, so it would be effective for psoriasis or seborrheic dermatitis."
Yay
84%Guru Score
"This is the ingrown hair pad from First Aid Beauty. This is good post shaving so that you can kind of avoid ingrown hairs."
Yay
80%Guru Score
Masks & Peels11 reviews
"Just because sheet masks are supposed to be soothing doesn't mean you can't have adverse reactions from them."
~Mixed
64%Guru Score
"I also recommend Paula's Choice BHA, it's very popular. These are formulated for at home use, the pH is appropriate, and the concentration is such that it won't send you to the ER."
Yay
89%Guru Score
"The Cure Red Light Mask is a really good brand, very popular and reputable, with scientific studies to back it up. I have that one at home and I've recommended it frequently to my patients. It has enough high quality lights in there to get the benefits of red light, you just have to use it consistently, once a day every day."
Yay
78%Guru Score
"My first experience with physical exfoliation was the St. Ives apricot scrub. It has little shards of walnut shells in it that are just tearing your skin. We just didn't know better, we were rubbing that stuff all over our face thinking it was doing something, but what it's doing is causing little micro tears all over your face and compromising your skin barrier. I typically don't recommend physical exfoliants very often because it is harsh on the skin and it can tear it."
Nay
39%Guru Score
"Our esthetician does a lot of the Perfect Dermapeel. It has several different ingredients in it, including a little bit of phenol at a very low concentration, so it acts almost as an anesthetic, which makes it a very comfortable peel, but it can still give you up to a week of peeling so it can still be very effective. It also has glutathione in it, so it's really good for those with hyperpigmentation, and it's been shown to be safe for lots of different skin types."
Yay
74%Guru Score
"The AlphaRet peel pads from SkinBetter Science are a retinol style chemical peel you can do at home. They come in a little towelette you wipe on your face, and they give you a little boost above and beyond what the AlphaRet is already doing for you. Just skip your retinol on the night you use it."
Yay
82%Guru Score
"This overnight hydration mask is essentially just going to be a moisturizer, we make it sound more fancy by calling it a mask. Not the clay mask, but the moisturizer, this is going to be an appropriate step for a tween, just fine."
Yay
65%Guru Score
"This person had the VI Peel and they're removing the dead skin as it comes off with scissors rather than peeling it off. If you peel it off you're going to be removing the skin that isn't ready to come off yet, so just trim carefully."
Yay
80%Guru Score
"Paula's Choice has a 10% glycolic acid solution that's going to be a little bit more on the aggressive side, but it's really good for exfoliating the skin. They also have an AHA BHA combination and a body lotion with glycolic acid, so there's a wide range of products available from Paula's Choice."
Yay
74%Guru Score
"The peel pads she's using from Dr. Dennis Gross are designed to be used daily, but if you have sensitive skin I don't recommend any type of exfoliator used daily, and if you're exfoliating daily I would not recommend using a separate retinol or other exfoliating or peeling product. It's a self-neutralizing peel, and the second step has retinol, retinoic acid, and resveratrol, a lot of antioxidants along with the retinol to help reduce or prevent fine lines, wrinkles, and pigmentation. She has a good exfoliating solution that she uses about once a week, and that works for her."
~Mixed
75%Guru Score
"This is the Water Sleeping Mask from Laneige. This one has mineral water in it, which can help to balance the skin's microbiome, and it's going to have a little bit of fragrance as well, so be careful if you're sensitive to fragrance, this may not be a great option for you. But this is kind of a boost of hydration on top of your regular moisturizer, you put it on and go right to sleep, so it's not the kind of thing you'd use as a morning moisturizer, but it's great for nighttime."
~Mixed
66%Guru Score
Retinoids8 reviews
"This skin would improve so much with a retinol. Even just starting with over-the-counter adapalene, like Differin gel, would tighten up the pores and limit the number of blackheads he's getting. Technically you could use a little Differin gel on a Q-tip in the ear too."
Yay
91%Guru Score
"You can also try the CeraVe Resurfacing Retinol Serum, which is available at a much lower price than the luxury retinol creams. When it comes to retinol, you do not need to pay luxury prices."
Yay
84%Guru Score
"You can also try the Neutrogena Rapid Wrinkle Repair, which is available at a much lower price than the luxury retinol creams. When it comes to retinol, you do not need to pay luxury prices."
Yay
83%Guru Score
"The $30 RoC retinol cream contains the same active ingredient, retinol, as the $300 La Mer retinol cream. Your skin cells do not really care about luxury, they care about the active ingredient, so this is a far cheaper option that does the same job."
Yay
76%Guru Score
"Another budget friendly option is the Ordinary 2% Retinol in Squalane. Squalane is an important lipid for your skin, so it's got ingredients to help hydrate the skin, and the Ordinary is a great budget friendly option. It's definitely not going to break the bank."
Yay
79%Guru Score
"RoC is a mid-range brand that I'm a big fan of. They make a number of different ways to apply retinol to the skin, whether it's a stick, a cream, or a serum, and they have an option that'll definitely work for you. It's well liked by dermatologists, so I highly recommend RoC as an over-the-counter brand."
Yay
82%Guru Score
"La Roche-Posay also makes an Effaclar 0.1% adapalene, and it's very similar, just formulated by the La Roche-Posay scientists. It includes their thermal spring water and other ingredients to help build your microbiome. These are two really great options and my favorites to recommend for my patients who want an over the counter option that helps control their acne and can also help with oil production."
Yay
87%Guru Score
"These are retinaldehyde, and they're good, like anti-aging, they help with lines and wrinkles, all of that stuff."
Yay
84%Guru Score
Acne4 reviews
"Salicylic acid is a beta hydroxy acid that I like on the back as well, it can help get down into the pores and decongest them. It comes in sprays, which is really convenient if you can't shower right away since it's hard to reach the back. Differin makes a spray you can just hold and spray on your back to help kill some of the bacteria, get down into the pores a bit, and remove some of the oil and sweat and dirt that accumulates."
Yay
77%Guru Score
"The CeraVe Acne Control Gel is a 2% salicylic acid, a really great leave-on treatment. It can be used all over or as a spot treatment."
Yay
71%Guru Score
"The Cetaphil Mattifying Acne Moisturizer has a 0.5% salicylic acid, so it helps leave a matte finish on the skin, and it has ingredients to help remove excess oil and directly treat acne. It's okay to use in this routine and should play well with your retinol. It's designed to be a lightweight moisturizer that doesn't sit too heavy on the skin."
Yay
80%Guru Score
"Neutrogena also makes a really good benzoyl peroxide product that I recommend often to my patients who are looking for a non-irritating over the counter option. That product is called the Stubborn Acne AM Treatment, and it's widely available on Amazon or Target or pretty much anywhere."
Yay
85%Guru Score
Balms & Ointments4 reviews
"Tacrolimus ointment is another one in that same family."
Yay
83%Guru Score
"The problem with slugging isn't necessarily the Vaseline itself, it's that people don't understand what Vaseline is used for and how to use it properly on their skin. A lot of people just don't know what they're doing, which is the case with a lot of TikTok trends."
~Mixed
86%Guru Score
"The CeraVe Healing Ointment is the favorite in my family, my wife and kids use it all the time on every cut, scrape, or dry skin area. It's primarily petroleum jelly, but it comes in a tube so you can squeeze out just what you need instead of dipping your fingers into a jar. It also contains ceramides, which are important lipids and proteins for your skin barrier to function properly."
Yay
92%Guru Score
"Dermatologists hate Neosporin. It wasn't developed or recommended by dermatology. Neomycin, one of its main ingredients, was named the contact allergen of the year, so a certain percentage of people who use it become allergic to it. I've seen this so many times in the clinic where somebody just had surgery, put Neosporin on against our advice, and became allergic to it. The wound gets more red and irritated and starts weeping, they think they're infected, so they put more Neosporin on and it gets worse. Those kinds of ointments can be used when there's a verified infection, but generally they're not needed in a preventative role."
Nay
31%Guru Score
Body & Tan3 reviews
"The Eucerin Advanced Repair Lotion is a great body moisturizer. It has five percent urea in it, which is more than double what your own urine produces, and it's not going to make you smell bad. In addition to the urea, it has other beneficial ingredients like ceramide three and other natural moisturizing factors that actually help hydrate your skin and contain the lipids your skin barrier needs. If you just have dry skin and need a good moisturizer, the Eucerin is going to be a great option."
Yay
93%Guru Score
"Neutrogena Norwegian Formula is a good hand cream. It's really really hydrating."
Yay
92%Guru Score
"This is the skin renewing lotion from Naturium. It's a great brand. This is a retinal body lotion so it's good for smoothing the skin."
Yay
74%Guru Score
Lip3 reviews
"The one I have here is Prequil, the Lip Visor sunscreen broad spectrum SPF 30. Many different lip products do not give you SPF 30 protection, but the Prequil lip visor does."
Yay
81%Guru Score
"Remedy for Lips has ceramides to help build the skin barrier, ethically sourced squalane, peptides, and petrolatum as the occlusive. It feels really nice on the skin, it's not as heavy and greasy as plain Vaseline, it blends in well, and there's no fragrance and no flavor to it. I think this would be a great product if you have really dry lips, if you like a Lip Balm, or even if you're on Accutane, since it actually puts moisture on the skin rather than just occluding it to prevent water loss. It's sixteen dollars, definitely more expensive than your average chapstick, but it's definitely a better product than your average chapstick. I do like this product very much and I'm definitely going to keep using it. If you get great results from plain Vaseline or Aquaphor, there's probably not a big reason you need to switch unless you just want to support the mission of the company."
Yay
70%Guru Score
"This is the Laneige Lip Sleeping Mask, and it's just going to help hydrate the lips before you go to bed. You could use plain Vaseline here too, but this is a really popular product, people like the flavor. There's a little fragrance in there, so if you have bad perioral dermatitis you may not tolerate it, but she's doing well with it, no issues with the routine at this point."
~Mixed
73%Guru Score
Tech3 reviews
"I have here the Cure Micro Infusion System, and this is the one product that I think is superior to any other at-home product. You get the bottle, and when you take it off you've got tiny little needles that only go 0.25 millimeters into the skin, but it delivers a solution as it does that can help with fine lines, wrinkles, and pigmentation. You use a new bottle of solution every time and a new tip every time, so you're not having to clean it, and these come in sterile packaging. When you wash your face at home, you dry it, you don't put any other product on, you stamp this onto the skin, and it takes maybe ten minutes to do your whole face. I think it's a twice a week at-home treatment, and if you are going to be doing micro infusion or micro stamping at home, this is the product that we recommend."
Yay
79%Guru Score
"I've been using this for the past several weeks and my skin is genuinely improved. As someone who spent years telling patients to skip the gadgets, that kind of surprised me. [...] I can't overstate the comfort of this mask. [...] The eye pads on this mask actually lift the mask off your skin for a way more comfortable fit. The reflective technology on the inside means as much of the light as possible reaches your skin. The battery pack that it comes with means that I'm not tethered to a wall. [...] LED therapy is one of those things where consistency is everything [...] and for me, this one fits easily into my routine. [...] The Ulike ReGlow mask is FDA cleared and has 272 LEDs, which is [...] double what most other competing masks have. More LEDs mean more coverage, more intensity, and faster results. [...] It has four different treatment modes: [...] glow mode with red, infrared, and yellow light for pigmentation and [...] skin tone; firm mode with red and infrared for collagen stimulation; rejuvenate mode with yellow and infrared to boost skin barrier; and clear mode with blue, red, and infrared for acne-fighting. In a 28-day study there was a 20% reduction in fine lines and wrinkles around the eyes, a 20% improvement in skin texture, and a 61% improvement in acne. In the first 1 to 2 weeks you'll notice your skin feels a little smoother. By weeks 3 and 4, texture improvements become more obvious and tone starts to even out. After 6 to 8 weeks there's firmer skin, reduced fine lines, and noticeably better overall skin quality. I recommend using it three to six times a week for 10 minutes. At-home LED therapy lives in the middle between basic skincare and professional treatments. It is a genuinely effective way to maintain and improve your skin and it's something you can do consistently at home without booking an appointment. For at-home skin maintenance, the Ulike ReGlow, in my opinion, is that thing. It is cheaper than professional treatments over time and is a one-time purchase with no subscription, no refills, and no ongoing payments. However, you have to use it consistently, results take weeks not days, and if you're not the kind of person who's going to use it consistently, you shouldn't buy it. It's not for use during pregnancy or if you're on certain photosensitive medications. This is not technically a medical device, it's an FDA cleared over-the-counter device. Individual results will vary."
Yay
Notverified
"The Ulike Air 10 IPL is absolutely one of the better at home IPL devices that I've tested, primarily because of the safety features and the ice cooling technology. It's not going to replace professional treatments, but it is a solid option for hair reduction if you are the right candidate. The price point of $399 puts it in the premium category for at home devices, but when you compare it to the cost of professional treatments, it's reasonable if you're committed to using it. You do need to use it consistently for 8 to 12 weeks to really start to see the best results because of the hair growth cycles you're going to need to treat over time."
Yay
Notverified
Toners2 reviews
"If you want chemical exfoliation, I recommend starting off with over the counter products containing salicylic acid or glycolic acid in low concentrations, like The Ordinary Glycolic Toner. These are formulated for at home use, the pH is appropriate, and the concentration is such that it won't send you to the ER."
Yay
76%Guru Score
"The Inkey List also has a glycolic acid toner, and that's going to come in at a really great price point compared to Paula's Choice. It's still not terribly expensive with Paula's Choice, but you are going to save money by going with the Inkey List."
Yay
78%Guru Score
Eye Care1 review
"The skin around your eyelids can still benefit from using a retinol as long as it's properly formulated for that eyelid skin, with lower concentrations than what you'd use on your face, and it can help with dark circles and increase skin thickness. I often recommend the RoC Retinol Correxion Eye Cream in my clinic."
Yay
83%Guru Score
Powder & Setting1 review
"I like Rare Beauty, but these are more makeup products, probably not necessary for a tween, and it's definitely influenced because she couldn't even pronounce them."
~Mixed
67%Guru Score
Supplements1 review
"I personally take Vital Proteins. It's not terribly expensive."
Yay
67%Guru Score
Tools1 review
"Do you need red light therapy in your routine? The short answer is no, but it can be a nice thing to add on. Don't look to red light to solve all your skin's problems, if you're not wearing sunscreen every day, exfoliating in some manner, and using vitamin C in the morning, you're not going to see a ton of benefit from it. This is a really popular device and it's not terribly expensive, especially compared to some LED masks that cost close to five hundred dollars. I'm not big personally on using skin care devices, I don't take the time to do that regularly in my own routine, and I prefer an LED mask so I can put it on and go about another activity rather than stand in front of the mirror with a wand like this."
~Mixed
52%Guru Score

This week's top beauty news, in your inbox.

A weekly read of the takes worth catching up on: the raves, the splits, the ones the gurus won't shut up about. Free, no spam, unsubscribe whenever.

Subscribe to the digest

208SkinDoc is not affiliated with, and does not endorse, The Guru Index. Every quote on this page comes from his public YouTube videos, linked at the timestamp. Verdicts and approval stats are our editorial read of what he said. "Guru" is a title we award, not a sign of any affiliation.