The over-the-counter retinoid the experts keep coming back to. What it does, how it compares with prescription retinoids, how to start it without the sting, and what 13 skincare experts said about it on camera.
Retinol is the ingredient most people mean when they talk about anti-ageing skincare, and it comes with a lot of questions. How often should you use it? Is the flaking normal? Should you switch to retinal, or go straight to tretinoin? Can it share a routine with vitamin C? And how long before you see anything at all?
Good news first: the experts we follow broadly back it for the long game. Their advice is mostly about how to start: slowly, at night, and in a well-made formula.
You might notice that retinol's Guru Score, 69%, sits lower than you would expect for an ingredient with this much research behind it. That is because the score counts every take, and the mixed ones are mostly about how to use it rather than whether it works. Mad About Skin's doubts come from a switch to retinaldehyde. The score comes from 46 mentions by 13 skincare experts, among them dermatologists, a beauty scientist and some of the best-known skincare creators. Below, what the experts said sits right next to what the studies found, so you can see where the two line up.
Retinol is a form of vitamin A used in skincare to soften fine lines, even out tone and smooth texture. The experts we track lean warm on it, and most of their advice is about starting slowly. Your skin converts retinol into retinoic acid, the same active as prescription tretinoin, so it works the same way but more gently and more slowly [1, 2]. Trials found real improvement in wrinkles and pigmentation over 12 weeks to a year [2, 3, 4]. The main catch is early dryness and irritation, so start slowly [1, 8].
| Question | What we found |
|---|---|
| What is it used for? | Signs of ageing: fine lines, uneven tone, rough texture and dark spots. |
| Do skincare experts recommend it? | Broadly, yes, with advice to start slowly. |
| Does it need a prescription? | No. Retinol is sold over the counter. Tretinoin and tazarotene need a prescription [7]. |
| How strong is it? | Gentler than tretinoin. One review puts retinol at about 20 times less potent [1]. |
| How long until it works? | Trials judged results after 12 weeks to a year of regular use [2, 3, 4]. |
| Morning or night? | Night. Retinol breaks down in light, and retinoids can make skin more sensitive to the sun [1, 7]. |
| Is it safe in pregnancy? | Skip it. The American Academy of Dermatology says retinoids should not be used during pregnancy [7]. |
Retinol is a form of vitamin A, and it belongs to a family of ingredients called retinoids. On its own it does very little. Your skin turns it into retinaldehyde and then into retinoic acid, which is the form that actually switches on the retinoid effects in skin cells [1].
Those effects are why dermatologists rate the family so highly. In a study that compared the two directly, four weeks of retinol thickened the outer layer of skin and switched on collagen genes much as retinoic acid did, though the changes tended to be smaller [2]. Over time that shows up as fewer fine lines, smoother texture and a more even tone [3, 4].
Retinol is a cosmetic ingredient, not a medicine, which is why you can buy it in a serum or night cream without seeing a doctor [7, 13].
Here is what each of them said on camera, with a link to the moment they said it.
I think it's really reasonable to conclude that retinol probably works. [...] Retinol is the skincare ingredient with the most evidence behind it.Watch ▸
Retinol definitely is not a scam. However, it doesn't yield instant results. Takes time. It takes patience. And yeah, it can be drying and irritating in the beginning.Watch ▸
If you're interested in anti-aging I would recommend using a retinol. [...] If you're new to retinoids I definitely tell people to start low and slow. [...] Start with a lower strength and just use a little bit very slowly. I tell people like a chocolate chip or a green pea size for the whole face.Watch ▸
Retinol usage can be tricky, especially if you have dry sensitive skin or you're a beginner in your skincare and haven't understood the skin requirements completely. When you're starting out or have dry sensitive skin, we always suggest that you use the sandwich method: [...] apply a layer of moisturizer, wait for about 15 to 20 minutes, then use a thin layer of retinol, and after two to three minutes apply a layer of moisturizer.Watch ▸
As a nighttime moisturizer amazing beautiful wonderful I love it daytime no seriously it's just because you shouldn't be using a product with retinol during the day because retinol increases your skin sensitivity to the SunWatch ▸
Once like the core non-negotiable skincare ingredient, retinol has been on a bit of a downward spiral over the past 24 months with lots of people increasingly sharing their experience online how they've ditched the retinol and moved to other alternatives. This is definitely something I did and honestly I've never looked back.Watch ▸
The experts lean warm on retinol, so the caveats are where the useful detail sits.
The evidence is strongest for signs of ageing. In a year-long, double-blind trial, 0.1% stabilised retinol beat the plain base cream on sun-damaged faces at every check, and by week 52 crow's feet had improved by 44% and blotchy pigmentation by 84% [3]. A smaller trial in people with an average age of 87 found 0.4% retinol, used on the arm up to three times a week, improved fine wrinkles after 24 weeks [4].
Next to tretinoin, retinol does the same kinds of things to skin, but less of them. In the direct comparison, retinol produced similar changes to retinoic acid, while the size of the effect tended to be smaller [2]. One review describes retinol as about 20 times less potent than tretinoin, because it has to be converted first [1].
The trade-off is comfort. Retinol and retinaldehyde are considerably less irritating than tretinoin [1], and in a long-term comparison both were better tolerated than retinoic acid [6].
Formula matters more than with most ingredients. Retinol is very unstable and breaks down into inactive forms when it meets light and air [1], so packaging that keeps both out helps the retinol you paid for reach your skin.
The retinoid family runs from gentle to strong, and several of our experts talk about where retinol sits in it.
Tretinoin is retinoic acid itself, so it needs no conversion. That makes it stronger, and also more irritating [1]. It is a prescription medicine [7]. If you are weighing the two, a dermatologist can tell you whether your skin needs the stronger option.
Adapalene is a retinoid medicine best known for acne. In the US, adapalene 0.1% gel has been sold over the counter since 2016 for anyone aged 12 and over [12]. DermNet describes it as the least irritating topical retinoid [13]. For breakouts, it is the one with acne approval behind it [12].
Retinaldehyde (also called retinal) sits one step closer to retinoic acid, so it needs one fewer conversion [1]. In a 44 week trial, 0.05% retinaldehyde was better tolerated than retinoic acid and wrinkles improved early on [5], though a later systematic review found no significant difference between retinaldehyde and the plain cream in that trial [14]. Mad About Skin switched to it and says it is clinically proven to beat retinol. We found no head-to-head trial of the two in people, so on the evidence we could find, the choice comes down to formula and how your skin takes it.
Most of the trouble with retinol comes from doing too much too soon. The American Academy of Dermatology suggests starting with the gentlest formula you can find, every other night, and building up slowly [7].
Two or three nights a week for the first couple of weeks. If your skin is not overly irritated, use it more often [8]. Dr. Mamina suggests two nights a week for two weeks, then every other night.
A small amount goes a long way. Dr. Mamina suggests a pea-sized amount for the whole face, dabbed in five places and then rubbed in.
Expect some dryness, flaking, redness or stinging in the first few weeks. Doctors call it a retinoid reaction, and it usually shows up early in treatment [1, 13]. Easing in is the best way to keep it mild. If it does not settle, or your skin is burning, stop and speak to a dermatologist.
Moisturiser helps. One AAD dermatologist suggests a little petroleum jelly or a hydrating moisturiser under the eyes and at the corners of the nose and mouth before applying a retinoid [8]. Dr. Aanchal MD goes further with the sandwich method: moisturiser, then retinol, then moisturiser again. We found no trial that tests the sandwich itself.
Use retinol at night. Retinoids can make skin more sensitive to the sun, so wear sunscreen every morning [7]. Retinol also breaks down in light, which is one more reason to keep it for the evening [1].
The American Academy of Dermatology says retinoids should not be used during pregnancy [7]. If you used retinol before you knew you were pregnant, a review of studies on topical retinoids found no major rise in birth defects or miscarriage, though the authors say the data are not strong enough to justify using them in pregnancy [10]. Dr Dray takes the same line: she calls the risk from cosmetic retinol very low but still advises against using it. Ask your doctor or midwife, including about breastfeeding.
Retinol already asks a lot of your skin in the early weeks, so the main rule is not to stack it with other irritants. Add one new active at a time, so you can tell what your skin is reacting to.
A popular pairing, and plenty of products combine the two. We found no trial that tests whether niacinamide makes retinol easier to tolerate, so treat that as a nice idea rather than a proven fix.
We found no study showing the two clash. The simplest split is vitamin C in the morning, under sunscreen, and retinol at night, which also suits retinol's need for darkness [1].
Go carefully. The AAD warns that exfoliating while using retinol can worsen dry skin or even trigger breakouts [9]. If you use glycolic acid or salicylic acid, keep them on different nights from retinol, or move the acid to the morning.
Benzoyl peroxide adds dryness of its own and makes skin more likely to peel [9]. It also breaks down tretinoin: in one lab test, more than half the tretinoin was gone within about 2 hours of mixing in light [11]. We found no matching test for retinol, so the safe habit is to use them at different times of day.
The best one for you depends on your skin and your budget, so here is the top-rated pick for each need, from the products below.
Beauty of JoseonRevive Eye Serum: Ginseng + Retinal
Works across the whole face, not just eyes
93%Guru Score from 18 experts
Best budget pick
Geek & GorgeousA-Game Retinol 10
Multiple strengths available for stepping up
90%Guru Score from 11 experts
Best for dry skin
Kiehl'sRetinol Skin-Renewing Daily Micro-Dose Serum
Slow-release retinol formula
89%Guru Score from 8 experts
Best for sensitive skin
RoCRetinol Correxion Max Hydration Cream
Lightweight texture, absorbs without heaviness
87%Guru Score from 9 expertsA high score for the ingredient does not carry over to every product that contains it. Strength, formula and packaging all change the verdict. These are the highest-scoring retinoid products at least three experts have rated, ranked by Guru Score. Some use retinaldehyde (retinal) rather than retinol, so check the label.
Beauty of JoseonRevive Eye Serum: Ginseng + Retinal
Rated by 18 experts
93%Guru Score
VersedFirm Ground Retinol Body Lotion
Rated by 3 experts
The catch: Takes longer to rub in
92%Guru Score
Geek & GorgeousA-Game Retinol 10
Rated by 11 experts
The catch: Yellow colour may stain pillows if applied late
90%Guru Score
Dr. Dennis GrossRetinol Serum with Ferulic Acid
Rated by 4 experts
90%Guru Score
Gold BondAge Renew Retinol Overnight Body & Face Lotion
Rated by 11 experts
89%Guru Score
Kiehl'sRetinol Skin-Renewing Daily Micro-Dose Serum
Rated by 8 experts
89%Guru Score
Medik8Crystal Retinal 3
Rated by 4 experts
89%Guru Score
Dr. Dennis GrossAdvanced Retinol Plus Ferulic Triple Correction Eye Serum
Rated by 6 experts
The catch: Has a floral scent despite fragrance-free claim
88%Guru Score
NeutrogenaRapid Wrinkle Repair Retinol Pro+ Regenerating Cream (Fragrance-Free)
Rated by 5 experts
88%Guru Score
Necessaire0.1% Retinol Body Lotion
Rated by 3 experts
The catch: Expensive for the price
88%Guru Score
RoCRetinol Correxion Max Hydration Cream
Rated by 9 experts
The catch: Fragrance present in current formula
87%Guru Score
Geek & GorgeousA-Game 101 Retinaldehyde Serum
Rated by 9 experts
The catch: Higher strengths leave a yellowish cast on skin
87%Guru ScoreRetinol softens fine lines, evens out tone and smooths texture. Your skin converts it into retinoic acid, which switches on collagen genes and thickens the outer layer of skin [1, 2]. In a year-long trial, 0.1% retinol improved crow's feet and blotchy pigmentation compared with a plain cream [3].
No. Tretinoin is retinoic acid, a prescription medicine. Retinol is an over-the-counter ingredient your skin has to convert into retinoic acid first [1, 7]. That makes retinol gentler but weaker: one review puts it at about 20 times less potent [1], and in a direct comparison its effects on skin were similar but tended to be smaller [2].
Retinaldehyde is one conversion step closer to retinoic acid [1], and in a 44 week trial it reduced wrinkles about as well as retinoic acid with less irritation [5]. Both retinol and retinaldehyde are far gentler than tretinoin [1, 6]. We found no head-to-head trial of the two in people, so a well-made formula your skin tolerates matters more than the name.
It depends on the job. For acne, adapalene is the one with drug approval behind it: in the US, adapalene 0.1% gel is sold over the counter for acne in people aged 12 and over [12]. For fine lines and uneven tone, retinol has trials behind it [3, 4]. If breakouts are your main worry, ask a pharmacist or dermatologist about adapalene.
Start with a low-strength product two or three nights a week for a couple of weeks, then use it more often if your skin is not irritated [7, 8]. Use a pea-sized amount for the whole face, apply it at night, and wear sunscreen every morning [7]. A moisturiser helps if your skin is dry or sensitive [8].
Many people build up to nightly use, but not straight away. Start every other night or two to three nights a week, and only increase if your skin is not overly irritated [7, 8]. Some people stay at a few nights a week for good, and that still counts as consistent use.
Retinization is the dryness, flaking, redness and stinging some people get when they start a retinoid. Doctors call it a retinoid reaction, and it usually appears in the first few weeks of treatment [1, 13]. Starting slowly and using moisturiser keeps it mild [8]. If it does not settle, or your skin burns, stop and see a dermatologist.
Give it at least 12 weeks. A trial of retinol found fewer facial wrinkles after 12 weeks [2], another judged fine wrinkles at 24 weeks [4], and a year-long trial kept improving to week 52 [3]. Dr Dray puts it plainly: it takes time and patience.
Retinoids can make skin more sensitive to the sun, so the American Academy of Dermatology advises using them at night and wearing sun protection by day [7]. Retinol also breaks down in light [1], which is another reason to keep it for the evening. Hyram, among the experts we track, is firm that retinol has no place in a daytime routine.
No, skip it. The American Academy of Dermatology says retinoids should not be used during pregnancy [7]. If you used retinol before you knew, a review found no major rise in birth defects or miscarriage after topical retinoids, but not enough data to justify using them while pregnant [10]. Ask your doctor or midwife, including about breastfeeding.
Yes, though most people split them. We found no study showing the two clash, but using vitamin C in the morning and retinol at night keeps each one comfortable and suits retinol, which breaks down in light [1]. Introduce them one at a time so you know what your skin is reacting to.
Not on the same night, at least at first. The AAD warns that exfoliating while using retinol or benzoyl peroxide can worsen dryness or even cause breakouts [9]. Benzoyl peroxide also breaks down tretinoin in lab tests [11]. Keep acids and benzoyl peroxide to the morning or alternate nights.
Yes. They are a common pairing, and plenty of products contain both. We found no trial showing that niacinamide makes retinol easier to tolerate, so do not count on it to cancel out irritation. Start retinol slowly either way, and add one new product at a time.
The dermatologists we feature here do, with advice on how to use it. Dr Dray and Dr. Mamina recommend it, while Dr. Aanchal MD stresses a gentle start for dry or sensitive skin.
13 experts, 46 mentions, every one traced to a video you can watch. Sponsored takes are excluded.
This guide combines two kinds of information. The expert consensus comes from 46 mentions of retinol by 13 skincare experts in their YouTube videos. Each one was read, given a Yay, Mixed or Nay verdict and linked to the moment it was said. Sponsored takes are excluded. The research sections summarise published studies and medical sources, listed in full above.
The Guru Score measures how warmly the experts talk about retinol. It is not a measure of clinical effectiveness, and this guide is not medical advice. It has not been reviewed by a doctor.
This guide is general information, not medical advice. The Guru Score reflects how warmly the experts we track talk about retinol; it is not a measure of clinical efficacy. Speak to a dermatologist or doctor about a diagnosed skin condition, and before using any medicine.
Dr. Shereene Idriss
Dr. Vanita Rattan
Nipun Kapur
The Budget Dermatologist